Forum Discussion
Ron3rd
Aug 11, 2014Explorer III
RJsfishin wrote:Lynnmor wrote:
Using a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 50 ft. lbs. is only required if the bearing races were replaced. Following the instructions will cover all situations. Hand tightening with Channelocks is fine if parts were not replaced.
Quote
Wrong again, this will result in a pre-load condition.
Wrong? Then Dexter's instructions are wrong. Take it up with the factory! The bearings are supposed to be preloaded btw.
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Yes, the Dexter instructions are WRONG !
Torqueing to 50 ft lbs, then backing off 1 notch will more than likely cause a preload condition !
All Lynnmor's Posts here are spot on correct.
Who am I ?
Just an ex student of General Motor Training Center, San Leandro, CA back in the 60's when the change was made from ball bearings to tapered roller bearings in all front wheels. Nothing has changed w/ front wheel bearings since that time.
BTW, the slight amount of bearing end play is for grease clearance, more so than heat expansion. If there is no space for grease, such as in a preload condition, a bearing is proned to a shorter life. The only bearing that calls for a preload, is one that is running in oil, such as rear axle pinion bearings.
RJ, now that's an answer I'll accept; Dexter's instructions are wrong. That's a Dexter problem then.
BTW, even with the preload, you still are backing the nut off to the first hole and the bearing ends up a little loose for grease and expansion like you say. At this setting, you can still "rock" the wheel very slightly so once you back the nut off, there is no way it can be too tight IMO.
I agree with you that you do not want a preload condition on the bearings as a final result, but the bearings end up without preload when you back the nut off.
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