50 amp missing

CA Traveler wrote:
I was also wondering how the 50A could have an open hot but not the adapter, thinking loose blade connection. But he tried a new cord. Also not clear how he tested etc.

has to be the receptacle at the pole.

I was also wondering how the 50A could have an open hot but not the adapter, thinking loose blade connection. But he tried a new cord. Also not clear how he tested etc.

Thought.. Well actually MEMORY. that MIGHT apply.

A few years back the Trailer next to me (30 amp) had no power.. Well after much testng we had good power to the outlet but none to his RV.. Turns out the blades on the plug were a bit...er.. short. and did not contact the contacts in the outlet. I dug in my adapt-a-kit and found a 30-50 dogbone.. Blades made solid contact with the 30 amp outlet on the bone. (I could feel the contact point about half way in) and the 50 worked fine in the park's 50 outlet he had power.. Well. I got sick and did not set foot outside for the next few days but when next I went out he had his own bone and mine was on the seat of my towed which was not locked.

How this applies:
You measured 120 volts either side to center on the outlet (good)
But did you measure the depth of the contact?

And is it possible one of the contacts in the outlet is "Spread" to the point it's not contacting your plug?

Have you tried a DIFFEERENT 50 amp outlet?

OP Retest and be clear about a "plug" and isolate the problem. Check the pedestal 50A plug: 120V from each hot to ground or neutral, 240V hot to hot and 0V neutral to ground. Repeat for the RV end of the cord. Next check inside the RV panel for the same voltages. Also use a 3 light household tester on the inside 20A plugs to be sure the wiring is correct and do this for the 30A adapter. Plus check the 50A female plug on the adapter as above except hot to hot should be 0V. What are the results?

Do not check voltages with a voltmeter if you are not sure about all safety practices.

RV circuit breaker? Who owns the pedestal?

LittleBill wrote:

BB_TX wrote:
Using a voltmeter make sure both hot pins of the 50 amp outlet have 120 vac. If so, plug in your 50 amp cord (with it disconnected from the RV) and check to see that you have 120 vac on both hot pins of the cord at the trailer end.

to clarify this statement. if your measuring hot to hot, it will be 240v. if your measuring hot to ground/neutral it will be 120v

It's hot to either of the neutrals = 120V, or hot to ground = 120V.
Ground to neutral should read 0V.

BB_TX wrote:
Using a voltmeter make sure both hot pins of the 50 amp outlet have 120 vac. If so, plug in your 50 amp cord (with it disconnected from the RV) and check to see that you have 120 vac on both hot pins of the cord at the trailer end.

to clarify this statement. if your measuring hot to hot, it will be 240v. if your measuring hot to ground/neutral it will be 120v

Using a voltmeter make sure both hot pins of the 50 amp outlet have 120 vac. If so, plug in your 50 amp cord (with it disconnected from the RV) and check to see that you have 120 vac on both hot pins of the cord at the trailer end.

The 50 amp outlet has one leg dead, or the cord(s) have one leg not connected. The 30 amp dogbone connecting both legs points to the outlet having one leg dead. The volt meter testing the outlet as two good legs points to the cord(s) having one leg not connected. The test results are mutually exclusive. (I am assuming that when you say the volt meter says both poles of the "plug" are hot that you really mean both legs of the outlet. If you really mean you tested the plug, it is the outlet that you need to test.)