about perfect for a 30 amp RV!

time2roll wrote:

Dutch_12078 wrote:
If a park is seeing a significant voltage drop when full then the park infrastructure is substandard.

Still the system probably meets code as it was never anticipated how RVs would become such power hogs even having power management systems to keep that 30 amp outlet at the very max for extended periods if not 24/7.

The park may have met code when it was built, but current code sets the minimum required percentage of 50 amp versus 30 amp sites, along with other changes over the years designed to support newer RV's with high power requirements. A standard 30 amp breaker only supports a sustained 80% load (24 amps). A well designed park electrical system should also support a sustained 80% load. The problem isn't RV's with higher power requirements, it's parks that haven't kept up with the RV market changes.

Dutch_12078 wrote:
If a park is seeing a significant voltage drop when full then the park infrastructure is substandard.

Still the system probably meets code as it was never anticipated how RVs would become such power hogs even having power management systems to keep that 30 amp outlet at the very max for extended periods if not 24/7.

wnjj wrote:

Dutch_12078 wrote:
Those "50 ampers" cannot pull more than 30 amps through the 30 amp breaker, and 15 or 20 amps using a separate cord plugged into the breaker protected GFCI utility outlet. None of the 'Y' adapters, whether commercial or homemade, will work with an NEC compliant park panel.

The larger RV’s are more likely to max out the 30A and also may want to use the 20A at the same time. Many have load shedding systems and/or inverters that can max out draw. A smaller 30A rig may not even have the means to even pull 30.

The 50 amp unit still can't pull more than a sustained 24 amps (80%) through a standard 30 amp breaker. If a guest is paying for 30 amp service, are you saying they can't use it? And those 'Y' adapters don't work on a current code compliant pedestal with a GFCI utility outlet. Any RV can have an inverter on board that pulls from the batteries, that's certainly not unique to 50 amp RV's. Any RV with an A/C, microwave, hair dryer or electric heater, etc., can easily trip a 30 amp breaker. If a park is seeing a significant voltage drop when full then the park infrastructure is substandard.

pnichols wrote:

3 tons wrote:

pnichols wrote:
I guess that this discussion thread points out a disadvantage of staying in hookup campsites.

We drycamp a lot in as much as possible campgrounds with good spacing between the sites and often when it's hot - so we can just use the generator to provide full power at full voltage to our RV. ;)

If a hughes autoformer is positioned between the genny and the air conditioner, I would think that it would help guard against voltage sag upon compressor start...

You hint at a very good point!

Instead of a Hughes autoformer, maybe the ultimate for us drycampers would be to install one of these in our coach air conditioner just to be on the safe side: https://www.microair.net/collections/easystart-soft-starters/products/easystart-364-3-ton-single-phase-soft-starter-for-air-conditioners?variant=30176048267

I did install the SoftStart (in lieu of the start cap) but it didn’t help much that I can tell...My #1 goal us to get the air cond to run while the Honda 2200 is in eco mode...If thus doesn’t do the trick I’ll likely switch to a hybrid ‘load-sharing’ type inverter...

westernrvparkowner wrote:
You can look up the proposed NEC changes for yourself. The NEC isn't some proxy for irate park owners. It carries the weight of law across the country since every jurisdiction I know of requires compliance to the NEC.

NEC Article 551.20(E) "Autotransformers. Autotransformers shall not be used."

That's been in the NEC since at least the early 80's. I haven't looked back any farther than that...

Hi,

I have the microair unit. I wish I had just stayed with the Sola Basic autoformer.

The microair made it so the SB did not "cut in" during air conditioner start up. That is why I've tweaked the SB to boost at 113 volts instead of the OEM 110. I did not have occasion to test the results of the tweak.

3 tons wrote:

pnichols wrote:
I guess that this discussion thread points out a disadvantage of staying in hookup campsites.

We drycamp a lot in as much as possible campgrounds with good spacing between the sites and often when it's hot - so we can just use the generator to provide full power at full voltage to our RV. ;)

If a hughes autoformer is positioned between the genny and the air conditioner, I would think that it would help guard against voltage sag upon compressor start...

You hint at a very good point!

Instead of a Hughes autoformer, maybe the ultimate for us drycampers would be to install one of these in our coach air conditioner just to be on the safe side: https://www.microair.net/collections/easystart-soft-starters/products/easystart-364-3-ton-single-phase-soft-starter-for-air-conditioners?variant=30176048267

Since there is a proposed change in codes for 2020, the 2017 information linked to does not really apply.

I just wonder how the experts figure how air conditioners running inefficiently on low voltage is somehow better that those running on the correct voltage. I guess it is better for everyone to suffer damage equally. The whole notion about Peter robbing Paul was debunked years ago.

And here it is for free:

https://www.nfpa.org/NEC/About-the-NEC/Free-online-access-to-the-NEC-and-other-electrical-standards

pnichols wrote:
I guess that this discussion thread points out a disadvantage of staying in hookup campsites.

We drycamp a lot in as much as possible campgrounds with good spacing between the sites and often when it's hot - so we can just use the generator to provide full power at full voltage to our RV. ;)

If a hughes autoformer is positioned between the genny and the air conditioner, I would think that it would help guard against voltage sag upon compressor start...