A/C Compressor Shutting off Mid Cooling Cycle
We spent a week in the southern KY heat and humidity last week and had some A/C troubles, luckily not until our last day though. The unit will come on like normal with both fan and compressor runni...
Forum Discussion
Also please check this thread about a Coleman Mach.
We've had the 2003 coach, 2002 A/C, since 2009 and used it almost entirely in Florida Heat/Humidity. At 15000, it works hard all day to cool our 31-ft non-slide coach, but it did it and kept plugging away.
Until this summer's Epic Heat Wave. After a few hours of running the compressor'd quit. Amperage was a little high, but I'm reluctant to condemn an $8000 A/C using a $15 Harbor Fright Ammeter. Anyhow, I had cleaned the coils plus the fan and blower wheel, and replaced the filters. What I found, was it would NOT cut out if I ran it with the shroud off. Just came back from a week's trip in hot/humid FL and that trip proved what Chris Bryant showed me in the linked thread: Hot Air was being Re-Circulated, back into the Condenser Coil, by the Shroud NOT having the Foam Baffles.
This was with the MaXXair TuffmaXX aftermarket A/C shroud that's been on this Coleman Mach 15 all those years since we got it in 2009. So, in addition to Cleaning (BOTH Coils, remove the Top Front Sheet Metal) and Filters, I'd suggest making sure the Shroud isn't catching some of the outdoor discharge, hot air, and sending it back to the Condenser Coil.
I'd thought air is drawn into the Shroud from the Sides, then blown Out, Rearward, through the Condenser. NOT SO. It's Pulled IN, From the Rear, then escapes through the sides of the Shroud. So, we need to block any hot air from turning the two rear corners of the unit, back around to the face of the Condenser.
You likely have an OEM Coleman shroud. It isn't clear to me whether they need the foam baffles or not. I think I read where TuffmaXX wants you to remove OEM foam and add theirs. In any event, I'd baffle the thing. I had a swim noodle and it fit. My original plan was the foam insulation that slides over copper pipe in an attic.
Another thing I've learned, is that an aging compressor(let's call it a "maturing compressor" since it still has useful life) will draw a little more amps than a new one. This can show up in heat. Also, run capacitor, and start assist device wearing out sooner than new.
Here is Chris Bryant's A/C Tuneup Blog Post. There are links to pictures, but I'm not sure they all work.
From Chris' Site, here's a diagram. In our case, the airflow over the Condenser (the RED Coil) is backwards from the diagram. The sheet metal you need to take off to clean the Evaporator Coil is to the left of the Blue Coil. You don't need to take the sides off, just the top and downward sloping parts.
We've had the 2003 coach, 2002 A/C, since 2009 and used it almost entirely in Florida Heat/Humidity. At 15000, it works hard all day to cool our 31-ft non-slide coach, but it did it and kept plugging away.
Until this summer's Epic Heat Wave. After a few hours of running the compressor'd quit. Amperage was a little high, but I'm reluctant to condemn an $8000 A/C using a $15 Harbor Fright Ammeter. Anyhow, I had cleaned the coils plus the fan and blower wheel, and replaced the filters. What I found, was it would NOT cut out if I ran it with the shroud off. Just came back from a week's trip in hot/humid FL and that trip proved what Chris Bryant showed me in the linked thread: Hot Air was being Re-Circulated, back into the Condenser Coil, by the Shroud NOT having the Foam Baffles.
This was with the MaXXair TuffmaXX aftermarket A/C shroud that's been on this Coleman Mach 15 all those years since we got it in 2009. So, in addition to Cleaning (BOTH Coils, remove the Top Front Sheet Metal) and Filters, I'd suggest making sure the Shroud isn't catching some of the outdoor discharge, hot air, and sending it back to the Condenser Coil.
I'd thought air is drawn into the Shroud from the Sides, then blown Out, Rearward, through the Condenser. NOT SO. It's Pulled IN, From the Rear, then escapes through the sides of the Shroud. So, we need to block any hot air from turning the two rear corners of the unit, back around to the face of the Condenser.
You likely have an OEM Coleman shroud. It isn't clear to me whether they need the foam baffles or not. I think I read where TuffmaXX wants you to remove OEM foam and add theirs. In any event, I'd baffle the thing. I had a swim noodle and it fit. My original plan was the foam insulation that slides over copper pipe in an attic.
Another thing I've learned, is that an aging compressor(let's call it a "maturing compressor" since it still has useful life) will draw a little more amps than a new one. This can show up in heat. Also, run capacitor, and start assist device wearing out sooner than new.
Here is Chris Bryant's A/C Tuneup Blog Post. There are links to pictures, but I'm not sure they all work.
From Chris' Site, here's a diagram. In our case, the airflow over the Condenser (the RED Coil) is backwards from the diagram. The sheet metal you need to take off to clean the Evaporator Coil is to the left of the Blue Coil. You don't need to take the sides off, just the top and downward sloping parts.
