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SJ-Chris's avatar
SJ-Chris
Explorer II
Nov 15, 2020

Added a new battery monitor...(Aili)

Battery Monitor == Fun!
Plus: How to avoid a common mistake regarding AH total

I have a couple 2015 Thor Majestic 28a RVs. I added a 2nd 12v battery to the coach (they only came with one). My batteries state they have 122AH each, so 244AH total. These are standard lead acid deep cycle marine/RV batteries from Walmart (...great value I feel). I am considering adding solar to one (or both) of the RVs. I'm trying to assess how much solar I actually want to add (100w or 200w). I have already purchased a 200w Windy Nation system. I might add 200w to one RV and try it out, or I might split it and put 100w on each (...I'd just have to buy another charge controller and some wiring).

I have always wondered how much various items in the RV are actually drawing from the batteries. But I was ALSO equally curious to know how well various charging methods actually work (Generator vs Shore Power vs engine alternator). (Anyone else wonder this or is it just me???) Eventually, also would be nice to see how much the solar is adding. I have always wanted to know: When the batteries are at 50% (for example) and need to be charged, how long does it take with the various charging methods to get the batteries back to 80%, 90%, etc. I often let other people use my RVs (family) and I'd like to have it easy for others to figure out also (so they don't drain/damage the batteries).

So I decided to buy the Aili battery monitor (<$45). I installed it in a convenient place. It was a pretty straight forward install and if you are curious there are various youtube videos showing people do it.

I was very pleased to see it working in action! If you aren't familiar with this battery monitor, it shows the following information at the click of a button:
- Battery voltage
- Current amps going in OR leaving your battery
- Remaining AH in your battery bank
- Battery % remaining monitor (Kind of like a "fuel gauge" for your batteries!)

It was very easy to program. Once it was set up, I could see how much each RV item is drawing from the batteries. I ran an overnight test with the furnace on set to about 65 degrees (it got down to 38 degrees overnight) and saw that over a ~16hr time period it used ~40AH. I wanted to do this because I know the furnace is one of the largest battery consumers. I can see that when I have everything OFF in the RV, it is still drawing ~0.1 amp (could be the carbon monoxide/propane detector). I got the batteries down to about 50% and then I got to see how the various ways of charging the batteries did... For example, if I turned on the engine and just idled, approximately 45amps were flowing into the batteries. If I turned off the engine and I turned on the generator, it was pushing 20amps into the batteries. Interesting. I didn't have an opportunity to plug the RV into shore power, but I suspect it would provide a result similar/identical to the generator (since it is the converter that is charging the batteries and I think it should operate the same on generator/shore power). As the batteries started getting more full (80%) the engine at idle was pumping 25amps into the batteries. And at 91% full, the engine at idle was putting only 7amps into the batteries. I suspect this is the correct operation roughly of how batteries get charged (when low they can accept much more amperage and when you are getting closer to full it slows down).

All-in-all very useful info and I am happy that I added this monitor. I will add it to the other RV also.

One thing to point out for anyone using this Aili monitor (or other monitors), I think there are some people out there pushing some false information. We all know that with typical lead acid batteries you are not supposed to let them discharge below 50% before charging them back up. So some have suggested that you should set your Max AH on your battery monitor such that it is only 1/2 of your total AH. I suppose this would be true for any type of battery monitor and not just the Aili monitor. For example, my battery bank is 122AH x 2 batteries - 244AH. Some would suggest that you "tell" the battery monitor that your battery bank is half that amount (122AH). This way, when you are reading your monitor % full when it gets to 0 you would know you must charge your batteries. I understand the motivation some people might have regarding this, but I believe it is misguided. Here's why...

Let's use my battery bank of 244AH as an example. Let's assume that we "told" our monitor that we only have a 122AH battery bank. On the Aili battery monitor, once it gets to 0% full (used 122AH) it cannot go any lower...it cannot go negative. So if you continue using your battery your batteries will in reality be less than 50% charged and the monitor will still say 0% full. To illustrate my point, let's assume that you could actually drain your battery completely all the way down to 0AH (would be a horrible idea, but stay with me...). Then, let's assume that you start charging your batteries. As soon as you start charging, your Aili monitor will start showing your battery % grow. After you have charged your batteries 122AH your monitor would say it is 100% full...BUT the reality is that you are only at 50% of the total battery bank charge! You would incorrectly THINK that your batteries are full but they would not be...they would only be at 50% and needing a lot more charge. That is the flaw! So if you set your monitor to 1/2 your total battery bank AHs you will not truly know if your % full is correct or not. Now let's say you are driving and your monitor got to 100% but you were still hours from reaching your destination. Your monitor would say 100% full and you'd be driving and actually still charging your batteries aggressively via the alternator of your car. When you arrive hours later at your destination, your monitor would say you are at 100% full but your batteries MAY be at 100% or 90% or 80%, and you'd never really know.

So my feeling is that it is important to program your Aili battery monitor (and any other that operates the same way) with your TOTAL battery bank AHs. And anytime you see it reach 50% you need to get those batteries charged back up. With this type of programming, you will always know exactly where your battery charge is. If, for example, you drained them all the way down to 30%, you would see it and when you are charging them back up you would know truly when they are all the way charged back up to 90%, 100%, etc.

Hope that all makes sense!

I wanted to post this to
a) Let people know how informative it is to have such a battery monitor, and
b) Give people my thoughts on programming your AH so that you always know the true state of your batteries.

Hope that helps someone!
-Chris

Question: How many AH/day do YOU use when boondocking??
  • Quicksilver has a 2nd plain ammeter next to my bed. In a flash I can tell if something weird is going on. For many years I had a -1.08 drain at bedtime and I knew everything was normal until the refrigerator or freezer cut in. 9.6 and 11.8 respectively. 24 volt units. I did mount a 5.0 digit red LED VOLTMETER.
  • "Depending on the monitor" is the key there! On my Trimetric, the AH counter keeps climbing (auto reset is disabled so it can work with solar--otherwise it resets the AH counter every time it gets dark)

    So it goes from say - 100 to about +15AH for a 115 return to actual full as seen with an hydrometer.

    The way the Tri is designed to work (I don't do it that way) you need to enter your battery capacity in AH, then the AH counter can tell what percentage of that you have recharged to and it displays the %. If your capacity entry is wrong, so is the % and when it thinks it is to 100% and resets the counter automatically to zero.

    I find that all so bogus, but that is just me I guess. Capacity on an AGM goes down with temperature by 15% from 77F to 32F, for one little thing. :( So there gores your capacity entry accuracy.

    That method Mr Wiz describes for another model of monitor shows how you need to know what exactly yours does so you are not misled by it.

    Been folks here who can't understand why their battery is nearly dead when their monitor says it is at 95%. They never got the battery full and only reset the counter to zero then, would be one thing.
  • "If you set the capacity low, then you will think you are full before you are and ruin the batts from undercharging."


    Not so, depending on his battery monitor
    It says xx Amp hrs removed, AH returned
    The percent of capacity remaining will show as lower, using 20Amp hrs from 100, is a larger percentage than using 20 Amp hrs from 122,

    If bank is 200AH and 40AH is used the bank is 80% SOC, if the Bank is 244 AH and 40 AH are used the Bank is at 83% SOC

    The key point is the monitor doesn't control the charging, it will stop counting and show 100% full capacity, when what was used is returned,
    But it always takes a little more extra energy to replace what was removed, there is chemical conversion loss mainly as heat,

    But the amps flow in will still show charging amps, you keep charging until amps flow In, is 0.5 per 100 Amp hrs, in this case 1 amp if battery capacity is really 200 AH , this eliminates the perkdrk effect ****.
    Monitor will show 100% capacity when AH returned equals the AH removed, what ever that amount is,

    But true 100% SOC is reached when the charge rate reaches the appropriate value, or you confirm cell status with a hydrometer
  • SJ-Chris wrote:
    BFL13 wrote:
    Your 122AH Walmart batteries are likely 122 at the 1 amp rate. Probably 100AH at the 20 hr rate you should use on the monitor as the capacity.


    Good suggestion! I will set my battery capacity monitor to 200AH as "full".

    -Chris


    No my suggestion was to confirm the AH at the 20hr rate. It should say on it, or else it should give the RC in minutes and the group size (27, 31 ??) The AH could be 122 at the 20 hr rate if it is a big battery.

    If all it says is the RC in minutes, we can figure out the approx AH at the 20hr rate.

    If you set the capacity low, then you will think you are full before you are and ruin the batts from undercharging.
  • BFL13 wrote:
    Your 122AH Walmart batteries are likely 122 at the 1 amp rate. Probably 100AH at the 20 hr rate you should use on the monitor as the capacity.


    Good suggestion! I will set my battery capacity monitor to 200AH as "full".

    -Chris
  • Adding only one 100 watt solar panel is a waste of time IMO. Do it once, do it right.

    “And at 91% full, the engine at idle was putting only 7amps into the batteries...”

    Nope. That’s what the batteries were accepting via the controller.
  • Your 122AH Walmart batteries are likely 122 at the 1 amp rate. Probably 100AH at the 20 hr rate you should use on the monitor as the capacity.
  • Bringing batteries to true -0- is not enough. My 2 volt cells need to be fed 122% because they are so old. So their charge efficiency factor is 1.22

    Excellent quality AGM batteries can operate in the 1.11 to 1.14 range.

    Lithium I have no idea about.

    My system is borne out of necessity and not convenience. Many times discharged to .80 sometimes to .50 and a few times to .38 of capacity. The saving grace was so time spent discharged. Sometimes I had to hike in still driving rain after a hurricane and hammer the 24 cells with 700+ amperes. We weren't going to have power for a week and I needed to get the cells back to at least 1.250
    The system demanded to have the amp hours re-registered every month. An hour with a hydrometer was enough, always bending an eye to the weak sister cell. I have a 300 ampere 3.0 volt transformer that weighs well over 115 pounds. It rides a mini trolley running the length of the shed.

    Amp hour meters are only accurate if their database is current, and trends and tendencies won't work here. Only a hydrometer can verify accuracy. Your batteries are the most voltage sensitive item in the system so the amp hour meter is a trends and tendencies indicator for the batteries. Incidental charging and discharging meter amp values are handy tools.

    Hope this helps

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