I must have missed where Mr Wiz's controller has an adjustable float so he is not stuck with that 13.8. Don't need two controllers.
Makes the whole thing a non-problem! The existing controller can handle the whole array. Crank up the Float to the chosen absorption voltage for when camping and adjust it back down for Floating when away from the rig. Too easy.
There is a problem on good solar days when you can get to full early in the day and want the voltage to drop to a float, when there is only the one voltage setting (more work and you have to be there to do it at the time. However Mr Wiz doesn't get to that point with that 120v fridge. ( I do not think the 120v fridge is a mistake. For the dollars it costs to have the propane option, you can still save a lot even when you have to have more batteries and charging for them)
I have to make the Float voltage on my controller the absorption voltage because this controller will drop to float as soon as it hits the Vabs setting. I have set the Float to 14.5 because that is as high as it will go, otherwise I would make it 14.8 same as my Vabs.
As it happens , the 6v batts are quite happy with the run up to 14.8 (usually to mid-afternoon) and then 14.5 till dark.
Unusually fine weather now (but bad for forest fires and farming) has us getting to 14.8 in the morning and then it is all-day 14.5 with the Trimetric going "over" in the afternoon. When it is about 15AH "over" (above zero) that is when the batts are at baseline SG, so going over more than that is "overcharging", which is just losing water and positive plate. If this weather keeps up, I will have to lower that Float voltage.
So solar is not a "set and forget" deal. You do have to pay attention and adapt to circumstances. Mr Wiz mentioned how he has to adapt to seasonal change where he is that is making his voltage selections complicated.