adding shore power outlet

dtappy3353 wrote:
Given our inverter/generator is in the back of the pick up, it would be incredibly convenient to have the opportunity to plug trailer in to generator from front of rv instead of running additional cord from rear (currently where shore power cord is).

Has anyone have or installed an additional outlet like this?

Thanks for the help and advice.

dt

PS. Have 30' fiver

I'm with those who are scratching their heads - wondering why the solution is so difficult..:h

Easy way (as suggested) - run a 12 ga cord - either direct, or via an extension cord....from your shore power cord -OR- with adapter from the shore power connection on your trailer.

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For the "additional outlet" you asked about.....

I have a 34' 5th. The "normal" connection for the 50amp "Anaconda"
power cord is at the rear. Connection (plug) is Marinco twist lock.

Problem/s:
1. Wrestling the 50amp (factory supplied) Anaconda was a PITA.

2. The power pedestal is/was usually about opposite the middle (or closer to the front) of the 5er.

Solution:
(The power panel in the 5th is inside the front compt).
Cut the line from power panel to the rear of the trailer.
Made that about a 2' pig-tail with a (one) 50amp male plug.

That pig-tail can be connected to (only *one*) of it's opposites, a female to:
The original connection at the rear of the trailer.
The 12v powered cord reel and 50amp cord mounted in the front compt.
(Pull out as much as you need - push button to "reel in".)

Want to use the gen in the back of (my) pickup? - Coin toss.
Pull out 50amp cord - and connect to gen with adapter, or use the 30amp cord I carry for that = two adapters req'd.

Also - I use a portable PI EMS between whichever hook-up I choose.

All electrics are contained in the front compt.
Small "notch" in compt door for the 50amp cord when in use. (Compt door remains closed)
Has a nice (small) sliding cover over the "notch" for travel.

Been using my setup for nine (9) years now.
Have yet to require extending the 50amp cord more than about 15'.
Really easy to reel in the cord..:C

Negatives:
The 12v cord reel and *much* more flexible 50amp cord was "pricey"..:(
However, if I choose - it can go with me to my next RV..:C
(This 5th can revert to factory set-up in about 10 seconds)

I'm WAY out of shape for Anaconda Wrestling now!..:R
A frigid snake would be a workout (probably with "epithets")..:(

.

On edit:
Credit where credit is due:
The above is a (my) variation of Ken Lenger's set-up, posted about 2003.
He used an on-board generator - and "manual" transfer.
See the schematic on his site -

Ken Lenger's wiring schematic


.

Why not just run an extension cord from the area of the existing inlet to the front..Put the coiled ends in a front/rear compartment,, install an electrical "Hatch" on both ends so when you hook up parked you open the door,(See option) Put the cord into the hatch and on out to the generator or inlet, Close and lock the door..NO need to "Re-wire" at all... and your "Transfer Switch" is automatic

One thing you do NOT want to do is put a 2nd inlet in PARALLEL.. via a transfer switch yes but not in Parallel. The extension cord addresses this safety issue. and whats more... If you ever dump the trailer (Trade in) you can recover the cord for your new ride.

My factory installed genny is wired like Gdetrailer stated. I have a plug in the shore power cord compartment that I plug my shore cord into when I want genny power or unplug it and run the cord to a power post. The cord stays plug into the genny plug so I don't have to mess with it when I start up the genny and if I'm hooking up at a camp ground I just unplug and run to the power pole. Simple, cheap and worry free.

So in the OP's case I would install a plug in the shore power cord compartment and run a power line to the front of the trailer and a female plug. Then make an extension cord to run from the genny to the female plug on the front of the trailer using the appropriate connectors for both the genny and trailer plug.

keep it simple and build an extension cord to run from the shore power cord to the gen. Not that difficult & would be safe.

This is just a suggestion, but install a shore power cord to the front that disconnects from the TT for storage, then run it to the back and put an outlet on its end. To use it, you plug your current shore cord into the outlet you just installed, add the stored power cord to the front, and plug in to the generator. No transfer switches. No dead man cords. No cords dangling from the front of the TT.

On review, I see that Gdetrailer did exactly that.

RJsfishin wrote:
You don't need a 30 amp ext cord. Run a 12ga cord, whats so hard about that.

If just battery charging, don't plug the whole RV into genset. Just plug the converter in, Maybe you lucky and the converter is up front so long cord not needed.

Yeah. I really don't understand why folks are making this over the top overly complicated..

My shore cord is behind the trailer wheels, I have the hatch door with mouse hole.. I put a 30A 120V RV receptacle INSIDE the hatch, ran 10-2 with ground Romex up to the trailer tongue. I put a 20A 120V plug on the end on the tongue.. I now plug a SHORT 12Ga 20A extension cord into the gen and coil up a few feet at the truck tail gate so when I stop I can pull the extension out and plug the trailer in at the tongue.

At the shore cord hatch I simply plug the shore cord into the RV outlet within the hatch.

Simple, no need for complicated extra breaker panels or even a ATS..

So, if the OP has the hatch with mouse hole and can get to the back panel of the hatch they can simply install a receptacle in the hatch area, run wire up to the hitch pin and since they are talking a 5ver they could even wire tie that wire to the trailer to vehicle cord and even plug it into their gen.. OP would want to convert Romex to a flexible "SJ" type cord if they decide to run the wire with the trailer to vehicle cord..

You don't need a 30 amp ext cord. Run a 12ga cord, whats so hard about that.

If just battery charging, don't plug the whole RV into genset. Just plug the converter in, Maybe you lucky and the converter is up front so long cord not needed.

Remember, when plugged in at either end, power can go through the converter to the inlet / cord on the other end.

As SoundGuy mentioned, you would need some way to positively disconnect whichever power inlet was not currently in use. Most preferrable would be something that acts automatically, or, a breaker system where only one can be energized at a time. Otherwise, when you were plugged in at the front, your main shore power inlet / cord would become a suicide (male plug that is energised) cord, and when your main shore power was plugged in, the front inlet would be the suicide plug. Somebody could get killed, touching one of those live plugs. You could also have some nasty issues, if you happen to hook up both shore power and genny at the same time.

As noted above, you want the 30a plug up front, not a receptacle. Essentially an extension cord from the shore power plug at the back.

It is all about the rig's physical openings for opportunities to run that extension cord.

On ours with the cable box a the back, it could go from that cable hatch plugged into the shore power (although that cord would be coiled up which can make it run warm) down under the trailer to up front. It would be kept off the road by attaching it to the various items now attached to the underbelly along the way.

Then you need another extension cord with plug size adapters to go from there to the generator in the truck. That cord needs to be kept off the road same as the 7-pin cord.

When I tried running the Honda 3000 in the truck bed while driving, it kept conking out at odd times, but mostly ran. Had to kept an ear open for noticing if it was still running. Various theories why it kept conking out. Back draft vortex winds and oil level getting bounced being two.

I have 'dual' 50A shore power receptacles on my 5th wheel. One front left side just under overhang and one rear left side.

Originally used a auto transfer switch...both feeds came into switch then leads went out to main AC Dist Panel.

Transfer switch failed, replacement failed upon install.....mfg. stated "Could you ship those back to us we are having issues"

I installed a 125A sub-panel in basement compartment. Both feed into sub-panel and have dual pole 5A breakers for each feed which are mechanically interlocked so only one set can be closed at a time.

Self contained generator in bed of truck with 50A twist lock plug (30A service)
Can plug into front or rear.
Can plug trailer shore power into front or rear--depends on where power pedestal is located.
Then just flip that set of breakers to ON

Been using this set up for 7 yrs.


Had to get the sub-panel
3 large junction boxes--One for each set of wires from receptacles and one for wires to main panel
15' of #6 wire in red/black/white/green for wiring from front receptacle to junction box
50A Marinco receptacle for front
30' of #6 wire in red/black/white/green for 3 10' runs from sub-panel to the 3 junction boxes
2 double pole 50A breaker sets



Front Recpt----------junction box.........to sub-panel/breaker
Rear Recpt-----------junction box.........to sub-panel/breaker
Main feed from sub-panel---------junction box.......OEM main to AC Dist Panel