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Snowman9000's avatar
Snowman9000
Explorer
Nov 19, 2016

Alternator Charging of MH House Batts, Ineffective Control

Forest River is putting a Precision Circuits Inc. "Battery Isolation Manager" in at least some lines of its MH's, including my Sunseeker.

Please look at this 2 page PDF about the product. Note item 5c, where they explain that to prevent overcharging house batteries, they turn the charging off after an hour. Then it will only re-start charging if the house batteries fall below 12.6v (that parameter is given on another document and the company verified that to me).

Look at Feature 5.c.

If you have camped off grid, and hope to get a good charge while you drive a few hours, this is no way to charge house batteries. The one hour charge is a problem, and so is the requirement that the batteries show <12.6v. One morning I left Quartzsite, with a good drive ahead of me. My batteries were in serious need of charging. I have solar on the roof, but the sun was so low in the sky that morning that they were not going to produce much. But they produce voltage, so that kept the BIM relay turned off. OK, I shut off the solar. Now I drive 10 minutes to the gas station. In that time, the batteries take on a surface charge. When I leave the station, the batteries are not getting charged. A ways down the road, the house voltage gauge jumps up to 14 something, and it's working. A while later (an hour, I suppose), it's back to 12 something. We stop at a post office, start again, still not charging. Etc.

Am I correct in saying this is a poor logic process? What logic is used by the Intellitec systems? Or others you are aware of? I expect that as long as my house batteries will accept charging, they should be getting it. Am I wrong about that?

Also, in the presence of solar charging, will other isolation systems shut off the alternator charging?

Don't misunderstand, my main point is not about solar. That's just an extra problem here.

Thanks.
  • The system is NOT designed for Boondocking. It is designed for the most common RV operation--- In a RV park and the coach batteries will NOT be severely depleted, so they use that 1 hour time. What you could do, is, install 2 extra cables on each side of the solenoid with a cut off switch. When you want to do the full charge, close that switch and drive. When you get to your destination, open that switch. Doug
  • Ivylog wrote:
    Sounds like they did not upgrade the Chevy alternator to a heavy duty 300 amp unit... OEM is 165 so after an hour they stop it from charging the house batteries because of excessive heat concerns... burning the alternator up, not overcharging the batteries. I would not bypass this system until or go to a BIRD system until I was sure I had a much bigger alternator than OEM.

    .snip.


    GM specs say the alternator on the Express 4500 cutaway chassis is 145 amps. It only has the chassis battery, plus the house has two (2) Group 27 12v house batteries. I wonder how many amps would be sent, for how long?

    I should look to see if I can tell if the alternator is stock or upgraded. But does it matter in the above case?
  • Don't understand 5c. So they don't want the house batteries to overcharge so it disconnects but it's apparently OK to continue to charge (and overcharge) the chassis battery?

    What part of the alternator charging and then maintaining both banks at float voltage do they not understand?
  • The physics of lead acid battery maintenance has not changed in 90 years. The circuit I just read about in your link is a circus clown marketing ploy. Muse this! Switching under load stresses relay contacts. I won't even get into the Larry, Curly & Moe insanity of the dynamics. Anyone have a Rhino Dart handy?
  • Ivylog's avatar
    Ivylog
    Explorer III
    Sounds like they did not upgrade the Chevy alternator to a heavy duty 300 amp unit... OEM is 165 so after an hour they stop it from charging the house batteries because of excessive heat concerns... burning the alternator up, not overcharging the batteries. I would not bypass this system until or go to a BIRD system until I was sure I had a much bigger alternator than OEM.

    My Intellite BIRD system uses 13.3+V in the engine batteries before it starts charging the house batteries, BUT in my MH it is from a heavy duty 260 amp big truck alternator through a 1200 amp (for 30 seconds) 200 amp continuous BigBoy solenoid. Even with this robust system I'll run the generator for an hour before getting on the road to bring the house batteries up after boondocking, otherwise I'll see 160+ amps out of the alternator for several hours... lots of heat. I feel an hour of generator time is easier/cheaper than replacing an alternator even though I carry a spare one.
  • I had a BIRD. From what I read, if the IGN is on and the chassis voltage is >13.3V, it is charging the house batteries, period. Doesn't that make more sense?

    (There are a couple of safety exceptions to account for big loads, but the the basic logic is what I wrote.)