Anode rod is seized

thanks for the replies. I'm gonna use an impact to rattle it. I restored cars for 20+ yrs and have delt with rusted fasteners a lot. Tightenenig it first is always the first attempt. I just thought I would get some other ideas. When coroded or rusted a rattle from a gun always worked better than a constant pressure. I thought maybe there was a trick I hadn't tried before. Won't be a next time. Gonna plug it if I get the rod out. This trailer was not maintained very well by prior owner/owners. Sad, it's not that tough to just take care of things. Some people !!!

Again, thanks to all that jumped in. Why I stay on this site. Great bunch of people.

sch911 wrote:
Use some teflon tape next time. These things should never require impact wrenches or breaker bar extensions to get out. It's being over tightened.

Yup, 2.5 turns of teflon tape will make the job MUCH easier next time.

And, no, it will not negatively affect electrical conductivity.

Use some teflon tape next time. These things should never require impact wrenches or breaker bar extensions to get out. It's being over tightened.

When re-installing, put a little anti-seize on the threads, comes out easy next time.

Jim

Several years ago I couldn't get my anode out then someone told me about using a breaker bar. I used a two foot length of pipe over the socket wrench handle on my hotwater heater and it came loose. Now I always use that pipe. It always works.

If it's a water heater with Anode Rod specified by Manufacturer, then it's Suburban and the tank is glass-lined steel like a home unit. Attwood makes the ones with aluminum tanks.
Still, the issue remains. Personally, I like an impact wrench for problems like this PROVIDED it can be controlled to where it "rattles" at the stuck item. Brute Force and Ignorance have served me well, but the glass lining and the few threads make me want to be a little more careful. There's a discussion here right now where the threads in a Suburban's tank are questionable.
If you do try heat, open a hot water faucet to relieve steam pressure in the tank.
EDIT: Buck's counterintuitive idea often works. If you can get it to budge, apply a little penetrant/lubricant then "rock" it. A little one way, a little the other. I've had fasteners move then seize up again, sometimes worse than at first.

Try to TIGHTEN first then loosen. I know, it doesn't make much sense, but it often works.

Might use a small propane torch and heat the tank around the threads so they expand a little, but try the breaker bar & extension first. Careful that tank is aluminum. :)

I wouldn't use an impact wrench (air tool) use a good 1/2" drive socket with a 12-15" breaker bar and a section of pipe that fits over the breaker bar. It works every time for me.

Not yet. I don't want to mess up the heater. I thought about an impact to knock it loose. After labor day I may give it a go I don't want to mess up my camping trip.