I have an 2001 Atwood 6 gallon water heater that will run one complete heating cycle then go into the lock out mode. If I shut off the switch then turn it back on, it works fine for another complete cycle then goes back into lock out.I have replaced the control board, gas valve, thermostat, ECO, igniter, thermocouple and gas tube. I have 12 plus volts at the board and have cleaned and confirmed a good ground.Both the Thermostat and ECO switches check out fine with a continuity tester.When it’s operating, the flame is text book color. I also ran a rag through the U Tube to confirm no blockage or debris.I did notice a voltage drop in the Red wire. 12.7 volts at board and 12.3 volts at Other end. Don’t know if this matters or not but I am going to replace the connector.I have a new regulator and manometer coming in the next day or so.What am I missing?Any help would be appreciated.

1. HOW do you know it is in lock out mode? Red Light ON?2. IF in lockout, you need to check for continuity at the tstat and the ECO. They should have continuity. If they do NOT, then which has no continuity that is your problem3. Atwood had a bad batch of Circuit boards a few years ago and attempted to withdraw all that were out for part replacement and the ones that were on NEW water heaters and suspect ones were supposed to be sent back. There is no way to determine which are good and which were the bad ones. So, just replacing may mean you got a bad one. 4. Are you POSITIVE you have the Tstat and ECO attached to the tank correctly with the spring keeping pressure and contac to the Metal tank? DougWhy a new regulator and a manometer?

dougrainer wrote:1. HOW do you know it is in lock out mode? Red Light ON?2. IF in lockout, you need to check for continuity at the tstat and the ECO. They should have continuity. If they do NOT, then which has no continuity that is your problem3. Atwood had a bad batch of Circuit boards a few years ago and attempted to withdraw all that were out for part replacement and the ones that were on NEW water heaters and suspect ones were supposed to be sent back. There is no way to determine which are good and which were the bad ones. So, just replacing may mean you got a bad one. 4. Are you POSITIVE you have the Tstat and ECO attached to the tank correctly with the spring keeping pressure and contac to the Metal tank? DougWhy a new regulator and a manometer?Red light is on when it goes into lockout mode.I will cycle the water heater again to get it into lockout mode to check the thermostat and ECO.I replaced the board about 6 weeks ago but will try to check it out. I have the troubleshooting procedure in the RV.When I replaced the Thermostat and ECO, I used some Silver Paste, apparently to maintain a better contact with the tank. I will clean that off and re-install the parts.New regulator because the system is 20 years old and I have had issues in the past with other RVs with oil in the lines. And it’s the last part of the system to be replaced.Manometer to check my gas pressure at the water heater.I can return the regulator if the pressures check out.Thanks for the info. I will give it a try and report back.

Go have a look at the connector that plugs into the circuit board.The connectors should have a bow shape. Use a dental pick and make sure the connectors are bowed and springy.Your connection at the ECO has to be good or the water heater would not have fired when switched on. Power from ECO goes to gas solenoids.I found this issue several years ago and then again last month while snow birding at Quartzsite. I had the very same symptoms as you, red light and lockout.Richard

I tried to turn on the water heater and it went directly to lock out mode.(Red light on).I tested both the Thermostat and ECO while in lock out mode. Both have continuity.Using the Atwood ( Intermittent Ignition Information Guide), I followed all of the procedures listed. Following the Potted Channel Circuit Board test procedure, I tested each track as specified.The Power track and Lamp track both returned a reading of 1478 using a continuity tester.The valve track had no continuity.So, can I assume that the board is bad? or should I be looking elsewhere ?

RLS7201 wrote:Go have a look at the connector that plugs into the circuit board.The connectors should have a bow shape. Use a dental pick and make sure the connectors are bowed and springy.Your connection at the ECO has to be good or the water heater would not have fired when switched on. Power from ECO goes to gas solenoids.I found this issue several years ago and then again last month while snow birding at Quartzsite. I had the very same symptoms as you, red light and lockout.RichardI will go look now.Thanks for the reply.Scott

Another Hot Water Heater problem | Good Sam Community

fyrflie
Explorer III
Mar 25, 2021
dougrainer wrote:
What you have is what the defective boards did. Doug

Just installed a new board and it won’t even start.
When you turn the switch on, it goes directly to lock out. Red light goes out then it immediately comes back on.

Could it be another bad board?
dougrainer
Nomad
Mar 25, 2021
fyrflie wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
What you have is what the defective boards did. Doug

Just installed a new board and it won’t even start.
When you turn the switch on, it goes directly to lock out. Red light goes out then it immediately comes back on.

Could it be another bad board?

Where are you getting the Boards? The problem Atwood had 2 or 3 years ago was they had no way to make 100% sure that the suspect boards were returned from vendors. That means dishonest people could get a hold of the suspect boards for almost nothing and then sell on the Internet or E bay. Most would work just fine a few times. We made sure we returned and purged our stock when Atwood had the problem and had Atwood send us the untainted replacement boards for our stock. You leave the switch ON. Disconnect the module plug from the board and plug in to test at the water heater. Doug
fyrflie
Explorer III
Mar 25, 2021
dougrainer wrote:
fyrflie wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
What you have is what the defective boards did. Doug

Just installed a new board and it won’t even start.
When you turn the switch on, it goes directly to lock out. Red light goes out then it immediately comes back on.

Could it be another bad board?

Where are you getting the Boards? The problem Atwood had 2 or 3 years ago was they had no way to make 100% sure that the suspect boards were returned from vendors. That means dishonest people could get a hold of the suspect boards for almost nothing and then sell on the Internet or E bay. Most would work just fine a few times. We made sure we returned and purged our stock when Atwood had the problem and had Atwood send us the untainted replacement boards for our stock. You leave the switch ON. Disconnect the module plug from the board and plug in to test at the water heater. Doug

First board came from PDX in Oregon, second board came from Amazon.
The first board is Version D and the second is Version E. So something changed I guess.
What are you referring to when you say “plug in to test”. What do I plug in?

Update:
Installed first new board, new ECO and Thermostat and new wire harness.
Water Heater fired off and is working as designed. Going to cycle it a few times to confirm operation.
New wire harness eliminates the small plug adapter and both the old ECO and Thermostat tested good on the bench.
Only time will tell.
fyrflie
Explorer III
Mar 26, 2021
Ran an overnight test and the water heater failed again. It went into lock out mode.

Domestic suggests that I take it to a service center because the chance of having multiple bad boards is very slim. Even though everything points to a bad board according to the Atwood troubleshooting guide.

Talking to PDX Wholesale about options to get another board.

Playing the waiting game now.
dougrainer
Nomad
Mar 26, 2021
When the water heater works the first time before lock out, does the Pop off valve leak or seep? Doug
fyrflie
Explorer III
Mar 26, 2021
dougrainer wrote:
When the water heater works the first time before lock out, does the Pop off valve leak or seep? Doug

No leakage whatsoever.

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