Atwood lp Stove Flame starts to die

C Schomer wrote:
I’ve used plenty of adjustable, regulators and set them to the pressure required. There are some really tiny regulators, even meant for pilot lights. You can usually find a manufacturers BTU rating on regulators
There is also a little bit of oil in propane from the industrial pumping equipment, and it can precipitate out into the end users systems. I’ve had to take sensitive equipment apart and clean out that oil.
I have several water column gauges but I used Fluke bench equipment to check the calibration and I’ve had to write a correction chart on each one of them. So just use a water column because that is the gold standard… W.C.
Always make sure you have a quick way to turn off the gas when working on gas appliances, accidents can happen! Craig

Thanks Craig. The possible particulate residue from oil in the propane raises an interesting question. What is the wisdom of placing a high flow disposable filter in-line before the appliances to avoid particulates from impacting the function of stoves, furnaces, water heaters, refrigerators ?

I’ve used plenty of adjustable, regulators and set them to the pressure required. There are some really tiny regulators, even meant for pilot lights. You can usually find a manufacturers BTU rating on regulators
There is also a little bit of oil in propane from the industrial pumping equipment, and it can precipitate out into the end users systems. I’ve had to take sensitive equipment apart and clean out that oil.
I have several water column gauges but I used Fluke bench equipment to check the calibration and I’ve had to write a correction chart on each one of them. So just use a water column because that is the gold standard… W.C.
Always make sure you have a quick way to turn off the gas when working on gas appliances, accidents can happen! Craig

What about other appliances that use propane, are they experiencing difficulty?
Hot water heater
Furnace

dougrainer wrote:

JBarca wrote:

pmlevine wrote:
To continue this thread regarding the diminishing flame on a lp stove Dometic/Atwood model RV-1735 BBP (flame starts high and blue, diminishes to a yellow flame after 5 minutes)...
The refrigerator and furnace work fine, I believe the stove issue is part 51062, the stove regulator ($50 item). Part replacement seems problematic: out of stock or has quality control issues.
I brought my RV in for service today, providing the above info.
If a $50 replacement part is not an option, what options might I have? Replace the top assembly of the stove for $$$ ?
I will report back on this thread after hearing from the RV service center, hoping a part replacement resolves the issue.

If the shop finds the stove regulator to be the issue, I would hope they can find an alternate regulator. These are not really special stove regulators, but they do need to fit in the space provided and regulate correctly. Having to buy a completely new stove top just to get a stove regulator is, well, not right.

Yes, please let us know how this comes out.

John

John, wrong! The Stove/range LP regulator IS a special regulator. The stove/ranges run of 10 inches W/C, NOT 11.5 WC. The Stove regulator drops the 11.5 down to 10 inchs W/C. So, you need the regulator built for 10 inches W/C. It is rare for this regulator to fail for pressure. Usually leaks. The OP needs to connect a seperate 20lb LP tank with the hose and 3/8 connector DIRECT to the stove and then test run. I believe his problem is the rubber LP supply line is slightly kinked causing it to run for a few minutes, and then goes out. This is especially true if the Stove is mounted in a slide room. Doug

Hi Doug,

I can tell by your response you may have taken my set of words out of context. I fully agree with what you are saying about the function of a "stove regulator". The term used in industry as a step-down regulator on a range.

I used the wording "stove regulator" as a specific device. Not a main tank (2-stage) regulator. I'm sure you will agree on the purpose of a "stove regulator" in a camper serves the same purpose as a stove regulator in a home stove/range. The purpose is to drop the stove supply pressure down to 10" WC to allow the stove to burn more consistently when other appliances on the 11" WC LP line starts and stops as the main tank regulator adjusts for LP loads on the main line. In the camper, when the furnace kicks on, the main line may boost up 12 or 13" WC and come back down closer to the 11" WC setpoint. The "stove regulator" tames this spike down to a more even 10" WC if it works correctly. Agree?

My point was, if the shop states they have to sell an entire range top to get a new stove regulator, that's not right. You got to be kidding me if they do say that. If Dometic is having a supply issue, an alternate, correctly sized, stove regulator can be used.

Atwood went through several different brands of stove regulators over the years, I'm sure you saw that. And so has Suburban.

Your kinked rubber hose thought, yes, good thought, I did not think of that, it is possible., Good point.

John

JBarca wrote:

pmlevine wrote:
To continue this thread regarding the diminishing flame on a lp stove Dometic/Atwood model RV-1735 BBP (flame starts high and blue, diminishes to a yellow flame after 5 minutes)...
The refrigerator and furnace work fine, I believe the stove issue is part 51062, the stove regulator ($50 item). Part replacement seems problematic: out of stock or has quality control issues.
I brought my RV in for service today, providing the above info.
If a $50 replacement part is not an option, what options might I have? Replace the top assembly of the stove for $$$ ?
I will report back on this thread after hearing from the RV service center, hoping a part replacement resolves the issue.

If the shop finds the stove regulator to be the issue, I would hope they can find an alternate regulator. These are not really special stove regulators, but they do need to fit in the space provided and regulate correctly. Having to buy a completely new stove top just to get a stove regulator is, well, not right.

Yes, please let us know how this comes out.

John

John, wrong! The Stove/range LP regulator IS a special regulator. The stove/ranges run of 10 inches W/C, NOT 11.5 WC. The Stove regulator drops the 11.5 down to 10 inchs W/C. So, you need the regulator built for 10 inches W/C. It is rare for this regulator to fail for pressure. Usually leaks. The OP needs to connect a seperate 20lb LP tank with the hose and 3/8 connector DIRECT to the stove and then test run. I believe his problem is the rubber LP supply line is slightly kinked causing it to run for a few minutes, and then goes out. This is especially true if the Stove is mounted in a slide room. Doug

pmlevine wrote:
To continue this thread regarding the diminishing flame on a lp stove Dometic/Atwood model RV-1735 BBP (flame starts high and blue, diminishes to a yellow flame after 5 minutes)...
The refrigerator and furnace work fine, I believe the stove issue is part 51062, the stove regulator ($50 item). Part replacement seems problematic: out of stock or has quality control issues.
I brought my RV in for service today, providing the above info.
If a $50 replacement part is not an option, what options might I have? Replace the top assembly of the stove for $$$ ?
I will report back on this thread after hearing from the RV service center, hoping a part replacement resolves the issue.

If the shop finds the stove regulator to be the issue, I would hope they can find an alternate regulator. These are not really special stove regulators, but they do need to fit in the space provided and regulate correctly. Having to buy a completely new stove top just to get a stove regulator is, well, not right.

Yes, please let us know how this comes out.

John

To continue this thread regarding the diminishing flame on a lp stove Dometic/Atwood model RV-1735 BBP (flame starts high and blue, diminishes to a yellow flame after 5 minutes)...
The refrigerator and furnace work fine, I believe the stove issue is part 51062, the stove regulator ($50 item). Part replacement seems problematic: out of stock or has quality control issues.
I brought my RV in for service today, providing the above info.
If a $50 replacement part is not an option, what options might I have? Replace the top assembly of the stove for $$$ ?
I will report back on this thread after hearing from the RV service center, hoping a part replacement resolves the issue.

Try your furnace. That way you can get a better idea if it is the stove or a supply issue, propane bottles or regulators

I keep finding the Atwood 51062 as "no longer available" where I normally buy them from. Not sure if that means those sellers cannot obtain them or if Dometic discontinued that part number.

Suburban uses (or used to) the same Seventh Generation R-60 regulator, and RVUpgrades here in Ohio has 10 in stock. Suburban calls it out as "SUBURBAN 161140 RV RANGE STOVE REGULATOR". Check your numbers to compare the Seventh Generation numbers in that link's picture. Atwood did change brands over the years, but the part number stayed the same. I am not sure your stove has the Seventh Generation regulator.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Suburban-161140-Propane-Regulator-p/41-1021.htm

I bought from RVUpgrades many times before and had a positive experience. You can also try to hit on the Suburban part number for places closer to you or an RV dealer.

That is what you requested, but I will add this comment. I have little faith that those R-60 regulators will work correctly unless they solve their problems in manufacturing. I bought 6 of them in 2019 to have on hand, and none regulate; they pass the upstream pressure downstream, and Dometic would not help. See this post of mine from 2019. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29878042/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm

I would make your manometer and test the old one in place; the test will tell you if the problem if the regulator is not passing gas. It is a normally open regulator, and the pressure starts closing it. You hook up on the orifice of the burner near the control knob. Take the burner tube off. If you have electric ignition on the burners, pull the fuse on that circuit, so the igniter does not fire during your test.

Your location states Massachusetts, well below the 4,500 to 5,000 ft elevation issues unless you are out west now trying to fix this.

I hope this helps, and let us know how you make out.

John

PS. If you have a friend or a local gas appliance repair place, they will have all the test equipment you need.