Atwood thermal cut-off issue

Thanks for the reply.
I agree completely. Fusible link...
I am doing what I call the "Spock" method, BEST GUESS.
I am going to replace the most logical components and see if I get lucky.
I've ordered the Main Burner and the Spark Electrode.
I ordered the Main Burner because it is looking old and I just wanted better control over the air to gas mixture (nice blue flame with no noise).
I ordered the Spark Electrode because it is the end load that the control board controls and if it is pulling too much load? Best guess...
I'll try the Control Board next if the Electrode doesn't work but it is $100 - $150 so I am hoping it is the Electrode.
There really isn't anything else in the circuit.

Unless the brown wire had insulation melted and the bare spot is touching something and when you move the wires to "Jumper" the Thermal cutoff it's either shorting or un-shorting I see not reason for the Fuse (for that's what it is) to cause the main fuse to blow.

IN "normal" operation it's a jumper wire. Just like the jumper wire you use to replace it.. Only time it is something else is if it gets too hot then it opens. Like a fuse. It's well Insulated by the plastic. Should not blow the fuse.

possible bad connection That can blow fuses by causing the device to "Stutter".

Does anyone have a pic of the thermal cut-off link as it sets inline with the T-Stat? That would at least show me the correct way the link is supposed to be connected (if there is a correct way). It should just be a fusible link, open or closed, so the direction shouldn't make a difference.

Thanks for the reply Old-Biscuit.
I believe the new thermal cut-off links are the same as the one I removed except the new ones have 1 female connector and 1 male connector (They also sent a brn wire with a female connector on it).

The biggest confusion is; if I bypass the thermal cut-off with a jumper - all is fine, but once I put the thermal cut-off link in I blow the 15 amp fuse. I put a meter on the new thermal cut-off link and it measures 0 on the ohm meter, the same if I use the diode test (I don't really think this thermal cut-off link is a diode even though it looks like one, I think it is a thermal fuse. It doesn't limit the direction of the current but simply opens the connection if the temp gets too high). I got 3 thermal cut-off links and all read the same way. No resistance is the same as if I put a wire (jumper) in it's place. So why would I be pulling > 15 amps with the thermal cut-off link as compared to just using the jumper? They both show 0 resistance on the meter!
Thus the confusion.

Female connectors on both ends?

Brown wire from circuit board goes to thermal cut off (12VDC POS)
Then Thermal fuse attaches to one of the T-stat Terminals
Brown wire from T-stat goes back to circuit board to provide 12VDC for operations

12VDC comes from On/Off Switch to circuit board and then from circuit board to thermal cut off.......no other wiring/circuits involved UNTIL DC goes thru thermal cut off.

15A DC Fuse Blowing.......
Direct Short. Did you buy OEM thermal with the replacement brown wire
Sometimes when blowback occurs the brown wire can be heat damaged
Need to do some testing on 12VDC to circuit board and especially on the DC to thermal fuse wiring