Atwood water heater igniter, constant?

pcoplin wrote:
Yeah, the pilot stays on. The igniter just continues clicking, but slower.

Looking at the wiring and the unit, there's only 3 wires to the spark module.

1: 12 v from the camper, shares with the hot water heater.
2: Ground to the case
3: output to the igniter


So unless the igniter is also supposed to act as a thermocouple, it's not an auto relight heater. Although I'm not sure why it slows to half speed when flame is applied. Hmmm..

The igniter tip has to be adjusted properly into the flame of the pilot. Called a pilot relight. If the flame is not quite adequate then it will continue to spark... The THERMOCOUPLE if heated enough will keep the pilot valve open, thus the pilot stays lit.

I did note that your pilot flame is burning yellow... Normally should be blue.

Jim

pcoplin wrote:
Yeah, the pilot stays on. The igniter just continues clicking.

So the main burner and the spark module use the same thermocouple? If that's the case then I'm going to guess something in the spark module is bad?

No.... Thermocouple goes to the Thermostat/valve control to hold the valve open for pilot. Your pilot is remaining lit so thermocouple and valve is ok.

The Igniter probe/sensor is one assembly with the wires attached to it.

I would adjust/ remove and clean/adjust the igniter probe... If that does not resolve the issue then the igniter module is the problem most likely.

The igniter probe is used for 2 functions.
1. provide ignition
2. detect flame...
How does it do that? When the flame occurs electrons flow (current) from the burner, through the FLAME to the igniter probe... up the wire into the ignition module.... The ignition module is not seeing that flame.

Jim

Never mind my last post, the model number states that it is an auto relight model:

G6A-7P 6 GAL. GAS - PILOT RELIGHT

Going to call Atwood. *sigh*

That water heater video is crazy. I suggest the Tech Issues forum will get you more help.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/listings/forum/39.cfm

Alternatively, search that forum including archives.

Yeah, the pilot stays on. The igniter just continues clicking, but slower.

Looking at the wiring and the unit, there's only 3 wires to the spark module.

1: 12 v from the camper, shares with the hot water heater.
2: Ground to the case
3: output to the igniter


So unless the igniter is also supposed to act as a thermocouple, it's not an auto relight heater. Although I'm not sure why it slows to half speed when flame is applied. Hmmm..

PILOT OUTAGE WHEN BUTTON OR KNOB IS RELEASED
Thermocouple not hot --------------------------Hold button or knob for 30 seconds before releasing Thermocouple loose ----------------------------Tighten connection at gas control
Weak thermocouple------------------------------Replace thermocouple
Weak gas control magnet ----------------------Replace gas control
Defective E.C.O. in control ----------------------Replace gas control

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/atwoodwaterheater.pdf

We all need to thank Bryant's Rv for providing his website and documents! He is a great guy!

Jim

The tip of the ignitor probe should be 1/8in from the burner....

Check the section "how to clean ignition module

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/operating/atwood1.pdf


If the thermocouple is not working the pilot will not remain on,

Jim

Yes the idea is to leave the igniter on to handle relighting if the flame is blown out. The one on my '95 Lance works perfectly.

I have a DSI water heater in the TT and I've noticed that I hear the spark continuing for some time after the heater ignites. I'm thinking its a similar issue to what you are describing and that the thermocouple is not close enough to the flame and consequently is taking a bit too long to detect that the heater lit.

Thanks Bill, I'll try that.

I can't seem to find the manual on it, Can you verify then that I'm supposed to be able to leave that igniter on?

Check to see if is in the flame. I had a similar or the same problem and I found that the igniter was positioned too high and off to the right not only did it continue to click but because it didn't get hot enough it kicked off the heater. The fix was simple. I adjusted the position of the igniter using a pair of needle nose pliers and a little trial and error.

Bill