I have an Atwood GC6AA-10E Water Heater. Since I got the trailer last summer, the hot water heater won't work on gas. It will light, run for 2 or 3 seconds and turn off. If I bypass the controls and hook up 12v directly to the gas valve it will run but the ignighter does not get red hot. The flame ignighter/sensor appears to be in the right spot, and the flame appears weak.So far I have:Replaced the igniter/sensor - both work the sameTightened all connectionscleaned the orificecleaned the flue and burner tubeshad the dealer verify the boardbypassed the ECO and Thermostat when testing and replaced themused a bbq regulator hooked up directly to the gas valvecleaned the gas valve with throttle body cleanerverified the solenoid valves are working in the gas valve by checking them 1 solenoid at a timeAny ideas would help. It would be nice to have access to another gas valve to test it but I haven't been able to locate one.Thanks for your time, Chris

The electrodes need to be in the flame- temperature does not matter, being in the flame matters, as the board passes a very small electrical current through the flame.It is possible that the board is actually bad- I have had some test good, but fail in use.

I did all the same stuff except have the card tested. In the end the card had to be the problem but with my water heater being 14 years old and the card costing about $125.00 and us being ready to leave for the winter, I chose a new WH on Ebay for $350.00

Not sure if you have done this. There is a wire that goes in the front of the water heater with a fusible link that is designed to cut off the power to the gas relay if the fusible link melts because of a fire outside of the burner.My fusible link was not melted, but the connection at one end of the fusible link was rotten and corroded preventing anything happening. Like you, I took the board in and it tested fine. Once I peeled off the shrink cover over the link, I could see the problem right away, and remade the connection with a new squeeze connector and then it all worked fine.

Artum Snowbird wrote:Not sure if you have done this. There is a wire that goes in the front of the water heater with a fusible link that is designed to cut off the power to the gas relay if the fusible link melts because of a fire outside of the burner.My fusible link was not melted, but the connection at one end of the fusible link was rotten and corroded preventing anything happening. Like you, I took the board in and it tested fine. Once I peeled off the shrink cover over the link, I could see the problem right away, and remade the connection with a new squeeze connector and then it all worked fine.That 'thermal link' kills ALL DC so nothing would work....electric or propaneOPs issue is spark electrode NOT being engulfed in flame, loose/dirty contacts on 'high tension' wire (at transformer and/or electrode), cracked ceramic (signal tracking to ground) OR bad circuit on control module

The problem seems to be the flame isn't strong enough to get to the flame sense probe. when I heat it up with a propane torch, the water heater will run

Atwood Water Heater won't stay lit. | Good Sam Community

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
May 21, 2016
Artum Snowbird wrote:
Not sure if you have done this. There is a wire that goes in the front of the water heater with a fusible link that is designed to cut off the power to the gas relay if the fusible link melts because of a fire outside of the burner.

My fusible link was not melted, but the connection at one end of the fusible link was rotten and corroded preventing anything happening. Like you, I took the board in and it tested fine.

Once I peeled off the shrink cover over the link, I could see the problem right away, and remade the connection with a new squeeze connector and then it all worked fine.

That 'thermal link' kills ALL DC so nothing would work....electric or propane

OPs issue is spark electrode NOT being engulfed in flame, loose/dirty contacts on 'high tension' wire (at transformer and/or electrode), cracked ceramic (signal tracking to ground) OR bad circuit on control module
Artum_Snowbird
Explorer
May 21, 2016
Not sure if you have done this. There is a wire that goes in the front of the water heater with a fusible link that is designed to cut off the power to the gas relay if the fusible link melts because of a fire outside of the burner.

My fusible link was not melted, but the connection at one end of the fusible link was rotten and corroded preventing anything happening. Like you, I took the board in and it tested fine.

Once I peeled off the shrink cover over the link, I could see the problem right away, and remade the connection with a new squeeze connector and then it all worked fine.
azrving
Explorer
May 21, 2016
I did all the same stuff except have the card tested. In the end the card had to be the problem but with my water heater being 14 years old and the card costing about $125.00 and us being ready to leave for the winter, I chose a new WH on Ebay for $350.00
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
May 21, 2016
The electrodes need to be in the flame- temperature does not matter, being in the flame matters, as the board passes a very small electrical current through the flame.
It is possible that the board is actually bad- I have had some test good, but fail in use.

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Atwood Water Heater won't stay lit.

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