Forum Discussion
KJINTF
Oct 28, 2013Explorer
Manual override / control works for me as well
Winni wired my monentary "Boost" switch as they typically do
1 - The house battery supplies the needed current to drive the 100% Duty Cycle relay when the switch is held active. This enables the house batteries to help start the engine when the engine battery is low. Ok for me so far
2 - Wired the engine battery through the igintion switch to activate the relay when the engine is running. Thus both batteries were always connected while under way. This did NOT work for me thus required some modifications
Modified the system by adding a couple dash mounted switches and a 3rd switch
1 - A disable toggle switch that inhibits the ignition switch control of the relay. This switch has a nice little green LED inside the switch to help me visually see the system status
2 - A Manual on/off switch that I can toggle when I want the banks connected
3 - A heavy duty rotary switch in the battery compartment that connects the two banks together. Only used during winter to lock the two battery banks together as one while the converter keeps them alive with 13.1 volts for months at a time
My typical operation includes
560watts of Solar that charges the house battery bank and if needed the engine battery via above switch settings
When on shore power or genset power the 75amp full manual control w/ pendant converter charges the batteries depending on the state of the switches
The 130amp alternator typically only charges the engine but can be connected to the house batteries if need be
Did pretty much the same setup in my fishing boat with it's engine battery and trolling motor batteries. We tend to be way out in the woods for a week or more at a time so needed some addition method of charging the trolling motor batteries. Added a connection from the RV solar system with 50ft of flexible 8awg cable to charge the battery bank. When the boat is at home it gets connected to one of the dozen or so converters hooked up around the place.
Works for me but might not for others since it requires manual intervention with an eye on the battery metering / monitoring systems
Winni wired my monentary "Boost" switch as they typically do
1 - The house battery supplies the needed current to drive the 100% Duty Cycle relay when the switch is held active. This enables the house batteries to help start the engine when the engine battery is low. Ok for me so far
2 - Wired the engine battery through the igintion switch to activate the relay when the engine is running. Thus both batteries were always connected while under way. This did NOT work for me thus required some modifications
Modified the system by adding a couple dash mounted switches and a 3rd switch
1 - A disable toggle switch that inhibits the ignition switch control of the relay. This switch has a nice little green LED inside the switch to help me visually see the system status
2 - A Manual on/off switch that I can toggle when I want the banks connected
3 - A heavy duty rotary switch in the battery compartment that connects the two banks together. Only used during winter to lock the two battery banks together as one while the converter keeps them alive with 13.1 volts for months at a time
My typical operation includes
560watts of Solar that charges the house battery bank and if needed the engine battery via above switch settings
When on shore power or genset power the 75amp full manual control w/ pendant converter charges the batteries depending on the state of the switches
The 130amp alternator typically only charges the engine but can be connected to the house batteries if need be
Did pretty much the same setup in my fishing boat with it's engine battery and trolling motor batteries. We tend to be way out in the woods for a week or more at a time so needed some addition method of charging the trolling motor batteries. Added a connection from the RV solar system with 50ft of flexible 8awg cable to charge the battery bank. When the boat is at home it gets connected to one of the dozen or so converters hooked up around the place.
Works for me but might not for others since it requires manual intervention with an eye on the battery metering / monitoring systems
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