Battery and Solar woes

Qwazert wrote:

StirCrazy wrote:
100 watts on a PWM controler will give you a little more time but normaly won't keep your batteries charged unless your usage is verry low.

so the questions becomes, how low do you let your batteries get typicly when your camping. if you routeenly are using more than 50% of the capacity it will lead to shorter battery life, and if you run them dead you could fluke out and have no issues or you could kill the battery. also did you check every cell on the battery or just one with the hygrometer?

Steve

Hello Kamloops...coming to you from the Fraser Valley! :D
I've tested the panel and its maximum output is about 4.5 amps...more than enough to keep a charge on batteries. Typically, it is about 2.2 a on a sunny day, so that should be sufficient to maintain FULL status.
The usage is low...the odd light now and then, maybe the water pump for a few seconds, but there is always the parasitic loads for the fridge and hot water tank.
All cells were tested and all had the same type of readings; 1225 - 1230.

2.2A-4.5A solar charge?

You are severely and chronically undercharging T105 batteries..

I think you are severely underestimating your energy usage and needs which contributes to killing your batteries in a hurry.. Properly maintained even with 50% DOD but promptly recharged those T105s should net you 9-11 yrs worth of service..

Typically with solar you get about 5 peak solar hrs worth of charge.. even a 4.5A for 5 hrs that is only 22.5Ahr worth of charge. That means you need to be running a gen for several hrs in the morning and several hrs in the evening and even that most likely will still fall short.

You need to audit your actual energy usage.

Your fridge uses battery to run the control board and open the gas valve.

Your water heater if it is DSI has a 12V control board and gas valve that like the fridge uses 12V battery.

The built in stereo system even if it is turned off sneaks 12V power..

Your propane gas detector also uses 12V battery power..

Furnace has a control board that uses 12V power even when the furnace is not running..

If you have a A/C unit with remote T stat, it too has a 12V control board that uses 12V even when A/C is not running..

If you have an inverter powered up all the time, it to uses 12V even when no 120V load is attached or turned on.

You can turn off all items and insert a Ammeter and see how much current is being drawn from the batteries without solar or converter running. Then one by one turn on those devices and record how much power is being used.. This will give you a better picture of your power usage.

If the total draw with just the fridge and water heater turned on is 1A or more you will have exceeded your potential 22.5Ahr harvest of your solar panel per day.

You most likely need more solar panel wattage and/or more gen run time..