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mlts22's avatar
mlts22
Explorer II
Jan 12, 2015

Best fittings for water heater bypass valves?

On winterizing, I noticed the cold water valve (part of the three valve array for bypassing the WH) was leaking around the crimp clamp. Since I always use a breakage as a way to upgrade to something far better, what would be some very good valves to replace the three plastic ones with?

If I could afford it, I'd go with ProPEX expander valves and fittings, but the tool for that is a bit out of my price range. Instead, I'm thinking of Flair-It fittings, and if they have check valves, going with a single ball valve, and two check valves to make bypassing doable with a single turn. If check valves are not available, I'll just go with the standard two tee valves and one valve for the bypass line.

Sharkbites are decent, and they seem to have a decent rep in some instances... but the fact that one O-ring is what separates you from a major disaster gets me leery, and the Flair-Its squeeze against the PEX itself.

Any other recommendations? My goal is to get this job done right so I never have to worry about it again.

15 Replies

  • Next time I need one I'm going Flair-it. But I don't know if they are any better or not?

    It would be nice if somebody has a side by side comparison test in the real world.

    I'm also picky about water pressure, I don't go over 45 psi.
  • I like PEX clamps and as you mention, the tool is expensive and needs calibration. I found cinch clamps and tool for PEX. Less pricey and works extremely well.

    I would go with a 3 way valve and eliminate 2 of the existing valves. This requires a check valve at the hot water outlet.
  • I have used shark bite several times with no leaks. The main thing I concentrate on is smoothing the cut edge of the pipe so as not to nick the o ring. Picture a smooth radius vs a sharp 90 degree corner. You want the sealing surface area to remain perfectly smooth also. No sandpaper scratches or any little lines in the area that the o rings sits.

    Cant remember the name but I have also used the type that some rv places sell. Put the nut on the hose, push the pipe onto the fitting then push the nut on and tighten. I have also seen a plastic shark bite type fitting at some hardware stores that is less expensive than shark bite.



    I would probably trust the sharkbite over the push on/nut type. I also turn off my water pump when I'm not using it. It's not off immediately but we just try to keep it off when done with it. If we are in a park and leaving the rig we would also shut off the city water. Too many horror stories.
  • My recommendation........

    Install 3 valves.
    1 cold inlet
    1 hot outlet
    1 bypass


    NO check valves..........they fail and then you have to go back and replace

    As for what to use.

    Sharkbites/Gatorbites-----I have had NO issues with either
    Flair-It also work
    Sea Tech/Watts fittings are also very good