Gene&Ginny wrote:
dapperdan wrote:
... On the "blue" brake pin however I'm only reading 3.5 to 4.5 volts. ...
If you are not moving and press the brake pedal that is what you get if nothing is connected. A small voltage is sent through a high resistance in the controller to sense if the trailer is connected. The high resistance in the controller means a very small current so the brakes do no operate but the controller can "see" the magnet wiring in the brakes. It will go higher if you are actually moving and hit the brake pedal to stop (inertia). Operating the manual lever will vary the voltage too.
Usually problems like that are where the brake wire passes through the wheel and the insulation cracks causing a momentary short to ground which the controller "sees" as an overload or short circuit.
This is correct. No controller output unless the controller senses the magnets being in place and wiring intact with PWM.
Clearly, the OP has a wiring problem. Very rarely will the tow vehicle side and or the controller be faulty with these symptoms. Very surprised that your RV Dealer does not have a Tekonsha Brake Controller test box...
Minor wire cracking and chafing is difficult to inspect -many times it is cheaper, when paying for mechanic labor, to to run new wire and connections from the front axle drop splice and back including the axle(s) crossover sections.
Has the dealer pulled the brake drums and looked closely at the magnet leads? This is the next likely place for a problem wire.
I have been through this drill many, many, times from working in a mixed fleet (large rental fleet) environment. Can be exasperating....