Breaking in a Champion 3500/4000

JiminDenver wrote:
Thank you for the replies.

Since the trailer is in a storage lot, I'll get a tank thru the generator here at home using a pair of 1500w heaters at different settings and then do a oil change.

Since we got the solar, exercising the old 3500/4000 was the only time it has run. I go out monthly, drop in some gas, start it and run a 1500w heater. Afterwards I drain the tank and run it dry. It has always started with a single pull until this last time when first the cord broke twice and then the starter itself went out. I gave it away thinking we'd get a 3100i...oops.

One thing while the remote start sure is nifty to have, the extra 20 pounds will make it so I can't lift it by myself. I wasn't suppose to lift the old one but I could when I needed too.

Like the link dog posted from brigs and Stratton, there is no intricate break in pattern, just don't run it balls out for the 1st 5 hours or so. Also, like Brigs, my champion manual did say to change the oil after the 1st 10 hours.

I ran mine with no load for about 10 minutes then ran it with a 1500w space heater on full for about an hour. Then we took it camping and didn't run the AC till a few hours went by. Then it got kinda hot outside and I changed the oil and ran it full out. I don't know if I even made it 5 hours before laying into it but it has been great for years. The AC isn't a full load anyhow I guess.

Thank you for the replies.

Since the trailer is in a storage lot, I'll get a tank thru the generator here at home using a pair of 1500w heaters at different settings and then do a oil change.

Since we got the solar, exercising the old 3500/4000 was the only time it has run. I go out monthly, drop in some gas, start it and run a 1500w heater. Afterwards I drain the tank and run it dry. It has always started with a single pull until this last time when first the cord broke twice and then the starter itself went out. I gave it away thinking we'd get a 3100i...oops.

One thing while the remote start sure is nifty to have, the extra 20 pounds will make it so I can't lift it by myself. I wasn't suppose to lift the old one but I could when I needed too.

Often a new generator will be a bit.... OFF,,, on the waveform. (This has nothign to do with the engine, it has to do with the generator) Running under load for a tank of fuel,, Be it partial load or full load, will fix this.

Source: I had a Genrac 1000, used it to feed a 300 watt flood lamp for one tank of gas.. PRE-Load run if I plugged in an APC UPS the UPS objected to the incoming power, Post 1st tank of gas.. No complaints.. Scope showed a good pattern after the test (did not scope when new).

Now: once you have run it. Then you need to do a maintenance run at least once a month.. I Suggest storing Generator with tank dry or with stabilized fuel (Seafoam in the proper concentration).. But Every month, 1/2 hour under 1/2 load, EVERY MONTH.

Run the dog******out of it. It likes it that way.

Leave the pampering to the Honda and Yamaha guys...... :p

RJsfishin wrote:
There is no breakin instructions because there is no such thing.
Get w/ the times here !

While I'm sure you are an expert on this subject, many of your contemporaries don't agree with you.

Your friends, Briggs and Stratton for example.

A Dissenting Opinion

There is no breakin instructions because there is no such thing.
Get w/ the times here !

I did mine by plugging in my 5th wheel since it has a 30 amp rv plug. Had the water heater on..turned the a/c on and off a few times for about an hour. Also plugged in an electric leaf blower and let the Champion cycle thru a few times. Always run mine about once a month with no load and then with a load.

Would it be better if I were breaking in a expensive generator? It may be just a cheap generator but I expect it to last for years. Allowing everything to wear in and seat before the generator is put under stress can lengthen it life and improve its performance over the long run. I know it has with the other small engines I've used even though there is nothing in the Champion manual.

It also allows me to run it for a while and make sure it will stay running before I take it camping.

The procedure mentioned is much like I use for my RC plane engines, basically bring up the stress/ load/ temp and then reduce to cool down, then repeat until you bring up to full speed. The only difference there is I can also control the mixture and lubrication too.

Just curious, what is the rationale behind this? I can understand needing to break in a $40,000+ truck with its 1000s of moving pieces, but a cheapy generator?

Salti dawg has the correct approach.

Charge some low batteries with it first. After 2 hours, turn on the electric water heater. When that stops cycling, let it run 1/2 an hour doing the battery only. Then turn everything else off and run the AC for an hour. Then try to run the AC and the microwave at the same time. Or do the AC and the electric portion of the water heater at the same time, the next day. That should do it.

That should do it.