Bulge in exterior fiberglass...

mchero wrote:
NICE Job!

X2 - a little bit more wouldn't have hurt, but thin is good. Next season or two when you apply the second layer it will be perfect. After that you can join the rest of us with layer after layer ;)

mchero wrote:
NICE Job!

Agree -very tidy job.

Other posters have advised you to use silicone based products for places not on the roof. DON"T DO THIS! It is nearly impossible to do spot touch up sealing with silicone products. Plus urethane based products work better with metal and gel-coat or FRP panels.....

On your delam -it can be fixed in methods that don't require the walls be stripped and removed. First and foremost -the water intrusion must be stopped before any re-bonding/re-laminating is done. Second, the best repairs require the substrate to be reasonable sound and dry. Some of the epoxy systems will work with moist areas but make sure the leak is gone!

NICE Job!

Looks pretty good but I would have been a little more liberal with the Dicor.

cannesdo wrote:


How did I do?



Lie to me if you have to. I don't think I can handle the truth until tomorrow.

looks neat, of course some here would insist that you should have slapped some magic scotch tape over it instead.
bumpy

Up to my armpits in alligators....love it. I am so fried. Been scrubbing and restringing blinds (hello) all week before this so I'm one broken water pump away from just setting this thing on fire.

I have sealed the leaky area. A 3 ft. section. It's 80 (in the shade) and sunny and 65% humidity. I also got all the old caulk off of one of the vents and did that just to see how it takes. If it looks like that's going to be a good seal I'll go head and do the rest during a nice stretch with less humidity in the coming weeks. I'm in San Diego. Hasn't rained all summer. Will prob be a few more weeks before we have any.

How did I do?



Lie to me if you have to. I don't think I can handle the truth until tomorrow.

Baptism by fire is what you're getting :W

Good plan on taking care of the leak.

If you call the rubber roof place they will tell you that the roof is warrantied for 10 years, but can easily go 20. This will depend again where you are located. Under a bunch of norther trees dropping organic material on it, soaking up rain and rotting or maybe sitting in the hot desert sun I'm guessing the roof isn't going to make x20 years.

When it comes to recoating you'll know. The white will start to wear off, black will appear, and you'll start to see fine spider cracks everywhere. Somewhere around 15-20 years is what I would say was normal.

You can get that window out with a putty knife by breaking the Butyl tape seal, BUT I WOULD LEAVE IT ALONE. You're asking for trouble and the tape they use can be far superior (i.e black) to Butyl (i.e. gray)depending on the coach.

Sooner or later you'll have to address the delam that occurred. Just not now when you feel like you're up to your armpits in alligators. Fix the leak, go out to the desert, recaulk everything nicely, sit back and enjoy life for awhile, then start to learn about delam and get the tools back out.

Yowz...took all the screws out of the window and that sucker isn't budging. The bathroom window came right out. I think it's sealed in place. I'm not up for stripping everything off just to (maybe) get a peek into the wall.

No more drips coming out today. Got the caulk and have chipped away at the old stuff. Going to clean it with the rubber roof stuff and the denatured alcohol then patch that one area w/ the dap today.

The woman at the counter at Camping World pretty much told me rig was going to fall to pieces and I was going to get sick and die if I didn't hire someone to rip the wall off my rig and replace everything. And my resale value is going to plummet. Truth is I may keep this rig for a lot of year and just renovate so I'm just going to patch it up and see how it goes. Guy at the service desk didn't seem to care either way but he did tell me removing the old caulk is best. Lots of videos out there showing professionals covering over existing caulk.

How do you know when your rubber roof needs recoating?

When it comes time to recoat the rubber roof itself do you have to take all the caulking off again?

westend wrote:

WoodGlue wrote:

westend wrote:
Adzel used in a composite wall structure is not immune to mold should the correct temperature and humidity be reached

I strongly disagree with this statement. I also thing Hanwa Mfg, the makers of Azdel would disagree with your statement as well.

Azdel IS IMPERVIOUS to water, mold and mildew.



For an example of Compositek, an Azdel like substrate;

Compositek Video

WoodGlue

You can disagree strongly or not but just because the Mfg. states it is "impervious" doesn't mean fungus can't propagate ON it if temperature and humidity are in the proper growing range. Since your wall is a composite wall structure there are layers into which water can migrate and then there is the possibility of mold.
Mold needs three things beyond spores (they are everywhere) to establish: Correct temperature, correct humidity, and correct surface. Eliminate any one of things and you won't have mold.

doesn't correct surface mean, in the long run, something for the mold to eat?
bumpy

WoodGlue wrote:

westend wrote:
Adzel used in a composite wall structure is not immune to mold should the correct temperature and humidity be reached

I strongly disagree with this statement. I also thing Hanwa Mfg, the makers of Azdel would disagree with your statement as well.

Azdel IS IMPERVIOUS to water, mold and mildew.



For an example of Compositek, an Azdel like substrate;

Compositek Video

WoodGlue

You can disagree strongly or not but just because the Mfg. states it is "impervious" doesn't mean fungus can't propagate ON it if temperature and humidity are in the proper growing range. Since your wall is a composite wall structure there are layers into which water can migrate and then there is the possibility of mold.
Mold needs three things beyond spores (they are everywhere) to establish: Correct temperature, correct humidity, and correct surface. Eliminate any one of things and you won't have mold.