Buried 50A power to my RV

DiskDoctr wrote:
If you're running 30 amp, MAKE SURE it is wired to 120v, NOT 240v ;)

I have a couple of 30A RV circuits on the other side of the house for when friends come so I know how to hook them up.

As I said in the top post, this will be a 50A setup. But, depending on the cost of copper to get 60A (or less) to my subpanel, I may scrimp and only put in a 30A breaker on the 50A wire going to the RV. That will be more than enough for my RV because the RV legs are pretty balanced.

C.B. wrote:
Plan for the future!!!!!!

While your running electrical run at least a couple runs of conduit for future ideas===water/cable tv/ and whatever.


C.B.

Good idea. I'll run a conduit for other stuff. Heck if I'm digging, why not. However, I'm not going to be digging deep enough to go below the frost line so I'm inclined not to put in water - just use the tanks in the RV if necessary.

darsben1 wrote:
Is direct bury cable allowed in your community?

The main entry into the house is direct bury (200A) but the rules for entry may be different than sub circuits.

MFL wrote:
with 120' of cable, plus the length of your RV cord 30'or more, I would consider using 4 cable, rather than 6.

The 120' would be from the main panel to the sub panel. It'll probably end up being higher than #6 but the run to the RV from the sub panel will be maybe 60' so #6 should do the job there.

When I changed my service from wired to underground 15 years ago at the S & B , I took advantage of the trencher... ran a trench to the back corner of the RV and dropped in PVC and installed 30 amp service.. That was the best thing I could have done, had a bad wire, just pulled out bad, and pulled in new, upgraded to 50 amp while doing that...

HAPPY HAPPY

PVC with a minimum #6 THHN wire would be this former sparky''s course of action. Personally, I'd go #4, but wouldn't harp too much if you opted for the #6 to save a few bucks. Don't know where you're located, but in my neck of the woods, PVC expansion couplings on the above ground risers are a must-have component. Don't be afraid to at least ask your sub-panel electrician to quote the whole job. The sub-panel is maybe a 1/2 day job at most. If it were my job, I'd lay a pretty sharp number down for you to fill some more time and not have to bounce to 2 jobsites for a day's work...especially if you were to dig the trench (Sparkies hate shovels!!!!).

If you're running 30 amp, MAKE SURE it is wired to 120v, NOT 240v ;)

If you hire a pro he will know the code, or so the theory goes.

Codes do vary but putting it in PVC is a good option, I think the code for buried cable in Detroit. MI is a pressure treated 1x3 on top of the wires... Bury the wood so termites can feast on it...

But then you don't know my opinion of Detroit's electrical inspectors (LOW).

Use cable rated for underground use and "Up-size" due to the length of the run.

I agree with KD4UPL-NEC code calls for 18" deep trench unless covered by 4" concrete. Use non-metallic conduit. You can only have up to 360 degrees bends in a run without a pull box. Run additional conduit/water pipe in trench. Don't skimp on wire size. I do a lot of these RV hook ups on private and Commercial property. I am a Licensed Contractor.

My local Menards sells service panels for RVs. You can choose just 50 amp service or you can a box with 20, 30 and 50 amp service. The difference in price is not to bad especially when you consider useability. I have two at my S&B and use them often for a variety of tasks.