Forum Discussion
Almot
Feb 25, 2015Explorer III
Thanks, I'll think about hole in the wall behind the controller.
Solar wires on bedroom wall (those hanging from cabinet above) are NOT a problem. Don't have the last photo now - I'm back North and trailer is in Mexico. Bear with me. Have already clipped solar wires underside of cabinet, out of sight, and then they drop down the corner of sloped wall (hidden in Cornermate Wiremold), then along the night table and up to controller. Battery cables come out of the hole in the night table (last photo, on the right), go along the table (in another Wiremold, those ducts look nice), and up to controller.
One puzzling detail is how to hide them where they enter the controller from the bottom or from the right side. If you look closely, on the last photo there is a heat sink at the back of controller, so the knock-outs are ~3" offset from the wall. Even with hole in the wall I have 3" of cables near controller - either solar or battery, or both.
Yes, this is wooden frame with insulation batts.
Now, about concentrating on fixing the box on the wall. Didn't want to start on this now, but since you asked ;) ...
This is 1/4" plywood, fiberglass insulation, and sometimes a stud if I get lucky. Controller - 9 lbs - is sitting on 2 screws #10 in the stud on the left, and on 2 rubber well nuts with machine screws #10 on the right (no stud there). Or would you suggest plastic anchors and tapping screws instead of well nuts?
Btw, well nut is a tricky thing, it pulls itself into the wall as soon as you remove the screw. One is already sitting there inside the wall, in the insulation somewhere. Had to put a big washer on the next well nut, so that it wouldn't escape.
Breakers box (2 lbs?) for now is attached with #8 tapping screws in 1/4" plywood, haven't decided on well nuts or plastic anchors. There are no studs nearby. I like well nuts as they "reusable" - I can remove the box for inspecting the contacts etc, without destroying plastic anchors or fragile wood.
Solar wires on bedroom wall (those hanging from cabinet above) are NOT a problem. Don't have the last photo now - I'm back North and trailer is in Mexico. Bear with me. Have already clipped solar wires underside of cabinet, out of sight, and then they drop down the corner of sloped wall (hidden in Cornermate Wiremold), then along the night table and up to controller. Battery cables come out of the hole in the night table (last photo, on the right), go along the table (in another Wiremold, those ducts look nice), and up to controller.
One puzzling detail is how to hide them where they enter the controller from the bottom or from the right side. If you look closely, on the last photo there is a heat sink at the back of controller, so the knock-outs are ~3" offset from the wall. Even with hole in the wall I have 3" of cables near controller - either solar or battery, or both.
Yes, this is wooden frame with insulation batts.
Now, about concentrating on fixing the box on the wall. Didn't want to start on this now, but since you asked ;) ...
This is 1/4" plywood, fiberglass insulation, and sometimes a stud if I get lucky. Controller - 9 lbs - is sitting on 2 screws #10 in the stud on the left, and on 2 rubber well nuts with machine screws #10 on the right (no stud there). Or would you suggest plastic anchors and tapping screws instead of well nuts?
Btw, well nut is a tricky thing, it pulls itself into the wall as soon as you remove the screw. One is already sitting there inside the wall, in the insulation somewhere. Had to put a big washer on the next well nut, so that it wouldn't escape.
Breakers box (2 lbs?) for now is attached with #8 tapping screws in 1/4" plywood, haven't decided on well nuts or plastic anchors. There are no studs nearby. I like well nuts as they "reusable" - I can remove the box for inspecting the contacts etc, without destroying plastic anchors or fragile wood.
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