Camper - tow car mismatch

2012 Liberty.
1 original module (Blown on initial camper connection)
3 follow up modules by one supplier/make/model installed by Lazy Days Blown)
1 replacement module by a third supplier/make/model installed by Lazy Days (also blown)

This is what I would be using. Doug

https://www.etrailer.com/p-HM56204.html?hhyear=2012&hhmake=Jeep&hhmodel=Liberty

After a year of problems and after he employed a law firm, Lazy Days was able to solve the problem. Although he lost many months of camping during the year, it is now working flawlessly. The electronic technician solved the problem by using relays in the system. A lot of the problems were really stupid and should not have occurred. Thanks to all for your input.

After a year of problems and after he employed a law firm, Lazy Days was able to solve the problem. Although he lost many months of camping during the year, it is now working flawlessly. The electronic technician solved the problem by using relays in the system. A lot of the problems were really stupid and should not have occurred. Thanks to all for your input.

So what was the problem?

The jury is still out, actually. What did LazyDays do?
1) They ran a ground line from the brakes all the way up to the vehicle connector. (The factory had only run a brake VOLTAGE line to the brake system but just grounded off that to the chassis) The position of Lazy Days is that THIS was the root cause of the failure.
2) They wired each output from the converter module to control individual fuse-protected relays that activate the outputs.

Why is the jury still out? Over the past year, Lazy Days has “fixed” this failure nine times only for it to pop back up. The number of connections/disconnections between the last two failures was approximately seven times. THIS time, it’s only been four and I honestly can’t tell you when I’ll be 100% confident that the actual problem has been resolved.

Note: Someone suggested putting in a smaller fuse. The problem was never voltage (current) coming from the battery (supply side), which had the factory converter fuses installed. The problem was a spike backwards into the converter module outputs from the camper, we believe. Putting smaller fuses online from the supply would not have addressed this failure, in our opinions.

I would suggest going to LED lights on the trailer if not already.

Why? Well they draw less current (the brake/turn signal lamps)

There is another fix too Two of them in fact. but more expensive.

The problem isn’t the outputs or incandescent bulbs. (All lights are factory LEDs) The problem occurs when the camper is hooked back up to the Jeep after a period hooked to shore power.
Again:
1) The brakes lights work when I park it. It’s hooked up to shore power while in storage.
As soon as I connect it again, I no longer have output voltage from the converter modules (I’m currently on my ninth one. Three different name brands. Different date lot codes)
2) This happens EVEN IF MY OTHER TRAILERS ARE NOT CONNECTED IN BETWEEN CAMPING TRIPS. (It is 100% NOT my other trailers.
3) It has never happened when the camper was in storage WITHOUT being connected to shore power.

TEO wrote:
After a year of problems and after he employed a law firm, Lazy Days was able to solve the problem. Although he lost many months of camping during the year, it is now working flawlessly. The electronic technician solved the problem by using relays in the system. A lot of the problems were really stupid and should not have occurred. Thanks to all for your input.

True related story:
I have a Remco Lube Pump on my towed. Well the original pump started "Stuttering"... (You could actually hear the motor stutter and in demonstrating for the repair guy I hooked it direct to the car's battery so I know what I'm about to type was NOT the problem) New motor worked great. for a while, then started blowing the fuse.

So I tried a circuit breaker, and promptly blew the controller
So I fixed the blown trace on the controller and added a relay.
Now that fixed the blown fuse but added more issues.. I Finally fixed those too.

But I finally found the cause of the fuse blowing.. IDIOT INSTALLER ERROR

Ran the hot (and sensor) wires under a frame member if I run up on a parking stop (and it at just the right height) it scrapes the wires bare.

Wires are now re-routed.. Good thing I'm trained in this kind of stuff. But when I get back to MI I'm gonna have words with that shop.

Scotty71 wrote:
The jury is still out, actually. What did LazyDays do?
1) They ran a ground line from the brakes all the way up to the vehicle connector. (The factory had only run a brake VOLTAGE line to the brake system but just grounded off that to the chassis) The position of Lazy Days is that THIS was the root cause of the failure.
2) They wired each output from the converter module to control individual fuse-protected relays that activate the outputs.

Why is the jury still out? Over the past year, Lazy Days has “fixed” this failure nine times only for it to pop back up. The number of connections/disconnections between the last two failures was approximately seven times. THIS time, it’s only been four and I honestly can’t tell you when I’ll be 100% confident that the actual problem has been resolved.

Note: Someone suggested putting in a smaller fuse. The problem was never voltage (current) coming from the battery (supply side), which had the factory converter fuses installed. The problem was a spike backwards into the converter module outputs from the camper, we believe. Putting smaller fuses online from the supply would not have addressed this failure, in our opinions.

Out of MILLIONS of RV trailers with Electric brakes, you have the ONLY ONE with a dedicated Ground wire from the brakes to the 7 Pin. In other words what LAZY days did and stated is nonsense. Sorry, the problem is JEEP's, not the RV dealer or RV maker. AS to your belief that the spike is coming from the RV converter. NOT POSSIBLE. The tow brakes and lighting are completely separate from the RV 12 volt system. Doug

Doug. Please go away. You’re not helping here and, to be blunt, you don’t appear know any more than Lazy Days, evidently. Perhaps you DO know more than the Jeep dealership that did a full work up on my entire electrical system (including the converter module wiring) to rule out the Jeep from being the problem. Perhaps that was a totally pointless $180.00 exercise in futility but I’m pretty GD confident it’s not my Jeep. Furthermore, odd, don’t you think, Doug, that THE ONLY time my brake light converter module blows is when It’s been connected to the camper after being plugged in? Perhaps you’ll now suggest that my Jeep is equipped with some sort of detection circuit that can tell when the camper has been plugged in to shore power and self destructs only under THAT specific circumstance?

Look, Doug, it might not be the brake wiring. I never said it was, AND, I did say the jury is still out. You can be very sure I have less than zero confidence in Lazy Days. (Hence, the lawsuit) This may very well come back again. I’m sorry, Doug, but it’s NOT my Jeep. It’s the camper. Period. I have an ATV trailer AND a kayak trailer. The module has NEVER blown after being to connected to either of those.

Lastly, should the 12V circuit be isolated from the brake system? Sure. In a properly built/wired/assembled quality RV, it probably IS supposed to be. My brand new camper is a hacked up POS that looks like it was assembled by an eighth grade shop class at best. For you to be so adamant about it still being my Jeep, especially given the clean bill of health from the Jeep dealership, just makes you look silly.