Forum Discussion

urbex's avatar
urbex
Explorer
Mar 24, 2019

Can I jump fridge gas valve for TS purposes?

Fridge in the "new-to-me" camper is a Dometic RM3604 3 way. I was unable to check the function of any of the appliances before purchase of the camper, so I do not know when it was last operational.

Turns out fridge has issues. Appears to turn on, but wouldn't cool down on any mode (120VAC, 12VDC, or LP). Went through the checks via the service manual, and appears to be a faulty circuit board - not sending any voltage to AC heating element in AC mode, sending only 5VDC to the relay when in 12VDC mode, and cycling power to the gas valve solenoid when in LP mode. Igniter seems to be working OK, but it's not getting gas past the solenoid valve.

I don't have a problem buying a new circuit board for it, but I'd like to verify the rest of it works OK before doing so, as worst case scenario, if I have to buy a new cooling unit and gas valve in addition to the circuit board, I'm getting awfully close to the cost of a whole new fridge at that point (and haven't even found a source for the gas solenoid valve if that's the case).

So I'm wondering if I can just jump power to that gas valve to verify it's actually functioning properly, and to make sure the cooling unit is OK?
  • Like Chris suggests
    Direct connect the 120v heating element, with a cheater cord
    If it cools fridge is good, replace board
    Don't mess around with trying to power the gas valve
  • In gas mode, first clean the orifice (I soak it in mineral spirits, and blow through to get it to squirt like a water pistol) but the pros here have other ways). Your solenoid might be ok, don't know until confirmed orifice is clean. Check all wire connections to the solenoid too.

    Bang on the flue above the burner slots to shake loose any soot flakes and clean out all soot that might have gone down the slots

    On my 1991 3-way Dometic, the AC heater element was rusted out broken so no good. You can check for 120 at its blade terminals on the side of the board. There is a 120v fuse on the board itself (5a on mine) and a 12v fuse (3a on mine) to check.
  • Hook the 120 volt element to power. Unless that has been updated, I believe it used the old Weber valve which doesn’t work like a normal valve.
    That said, if it is still available Dometic has a conversion kit with new gas valve, burner and circuit board.