I suppose it might be because stabilizer jacks aren't rated for load, but I've seen mention of frame twisting also. "Do not use jacks to level RV; use only to stabilize." So, you have to work on suspension sometimes. How do you go about raising and supporting an entire camper on jack stands. I assume you have to do it on nearly level ground and have the stands set so that the frame is level once lowered. Do you use two pair at the corners, three with one near the spring mounts, a pair at each of the spring mounts and a pair to the front like is sits day to day anyway?I'm just curious more than anything, but I could see doing it if one was planning to replace a bunch of stuff at one time.

I had mine up with the wheels off. It was supported by the tongue jack, four jack stands in the middle, and blocking piers in all four corners. You want as much stable support as can be had. I have torsion axles so all support was under the frame.

Since the entire trailer can safely bounce down the highway on its tires, I'm sure you could get away with two jack stands on each side just fore/aft of the tires/axles.

BillyW wrote:Since the entire trailer can safely bounce down the highway on its tires, I'm sure you could get away with two jack stands on each side just fore/aft of the tires/axles.Point well taken...I wrote in another post concerning a leveling system:"I'm perplexed as why some would say that a trailer frame might not be able to support a leveling system or that it may flex. Think about where the trailer axles are located. The overhang alone would surely flex the frame under that train of thought. Of coarse when you travel, there is another point of contact,the hitch, but there's still the overhang in the rear. That said, if I were to mount a leveling system, I would mount the "feet" half way between the axle and the corner of the unit. To help to keep the frame from "flexing". I'm such a hypocrite."I would just put the jack stands half way between the axle and the corner of the unit. Considering that this is just a temporary situation to do service to the rig. :D

BillyW wrote:Since the entire trailer can safely bounce down the highway on its tires, I'm sure you could get away with two jack stands on each side just fore/aft of the tires/axles.This is what I would do. Then use the stabilizers to further stabilize the trailer. Make sure the jacks are labeled with ANSI/ASME certification and with their max. weight rating on them. Never use RV aluminum stacker jacks to support the weight of a trailer as they don't meet ANSI/ASME standards. You may need to use some cribbing to get the base of a jack high enough off the floor. Cribbing should be wide enough to provide adequate lateral stability and extending the jack as little as possible will make it more stable. I would never use the four corners of a trailer to raise it. You would be amazed at how much a frame flexes. Frames have droop/camber in them and if you lift the four corners, can cause the superstructure to flex too much and damage the structure. We have a very heavy duty frame on our TT and if I tighten up the rear electric stabilizers too much, the dead bolt in the rear entry door won't work as the bolt to striker plate tolerance is too tight (I need to fix that).

BillyW wrote:Since the entire trailer can safely bounce down the highway on its tires, I'm sure you could get away with two jack stands on each side just fore/aft of the tires/axles.But when the trailer is sitting on the tires, the weight is carried by the axle and tires. Picking the tires up off the ground requires the weight to be carried by the frame. It's like pulling a load-bearing wall out of a house, and expecting the walls to hold it up.

Can one set the whole camper on jack stands? | Good Sam Community

Huntindog
Explorer
Jun 01, 2016
TNrob wrote:
I think the notion of a jack stand at each leaf spring mount is rational. That puts the load onto the frame in almost exactly the same place as the mounted suspension does.

So, working on slightly sloped (front to rear but not side to side) concrete driveway, raise one side enough to get stands under it, maybe adjust tongue to get that side's frame rail level. Jack other side, lower onto second pair stands, maybe adjust tongue if necessary. Stabilize all four corners as usual. Weight is right were it normally is and all corners are stead to help prevent any movement on the stands.

Hmmm. Might be the way. I hope not to ever have to do it, but that seems like a reasonable procedure.That is how I do it.

Cheers.
TurnThePage
Explorer
Jun 01, 2016
coolmom42 wrote:
BillyW wrote:
Since the entire trailer can safely bounce down the highway on its tires, I'm sure you could get away with two jack stands on each side just fore/aft of the tires/axles.

But when the trailer is sitting on the tires, the weight is carried by the axle and tires. Picking the tires up off the ground requires the weight to be carried by the frame. It's like pulling a load-bearing wall out of a house, and expecting the walls to hold it up.
What are the tires and axles attached to?
Almot
Explorer III
Jun 01, 2016
TNrob wrote:
like a floor jack rather than a bottle jack?

I used hydraulic bottle jack to work with wheels. Not floor jack.

Like CJ said, they are to "lift", not to support the rig when living there. They are easy to work with, and are safer when you are working under the rig, but they are not meant to remain extended for long time like several weeks. It's better to use screw/nut type jack stands for that, like those in SMK link or similar.
CJW8
Explorer
Jun 01, 2016
I use bottle jacks to lift it and jack stands to support it. Never work under anything only supported by jacks. If just working on one side at a time lift that side and put jack stands near the spring hangers. Two per side are sufficient.
My installed 6 point hydraulic leveling system on my 5th wheel has two jacks at the front and 4 jacks in the middle, 2 per side, in front of and behind the axles.
time2roll
Nomad
Jun 01, 2016
I use four jack stands under the frame.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-jack-stands-34924.html
TNrob
Explorer
Jun 01, 2016
llr wrote:
I put cribbing under the tongue as I did not like the stability of it then jacked between the axles and placed 2 jack stands just behind the rear axle

On the frame rather than the spring joint(whatever it's called) right?
llr
Explorer
Jun 01, 2016
I put cribbing under the tongue as I did not like the stability of it then jacked between the axles and placed 2 jack stands just behind the rear axle
TNrob
Explorer
Jun 01, 2016
like a floor jack rather than a bottle jack?
Almot
Explorer III
Jun 01, 2016
What West said: 4 corners, tongue and 4 near axles.

If you need to take wheels off, get one hydraulic jack in addition to this. Easier to operate than those bolt and screw contraptions.
TNrob
Explorer
Jun 01, 2016
I think the notion of a jack stand at each leaf spring mount is rational. That puts the load onto the frame in almost exactly the same place as the mounted suspension does.

So, working on slightly sloped (front to rear but not side to side) concrete driveway, raise one side enough to get stands under it, maybe adjust tongue to get that side's frame rail level. Jack other side, lower onto second pair stands, maybe adjust tongue if necessary. Stabilize all four corners as usual. Weight is right were it normally is and all corners are stead to help prevent any movement on the stands.

Hmmm. Might be the way. I hope not to ever have to do it, but that seems like a reasonable procedure.

Cheers.