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Boatycall's avatar
Boatycall
Explorer
Jul 10, 2014

Connect Honda EU1000i to a EU2000i WITHOUT Honda's cord

***Disclaimer-- As with my previous posts pertaining to things electrical, I'm an Electrical Engineer, DO NO try this at home. You will burn down your camper, kill your neighbor's dog, and smoke two very expensive generators if you do this wrong***


Since I just picked up a Honda EU2000i-Companion gen yesterday, and I already have a EU1000i. I thought I'd tackle two "Urban Legends".

1-- You can't hook dis-similar Honda's together
2-- You MUST use Honda's VERY expensive parallel cord to run two gen's together.

First -- research. I did a LOT of reading out there. There are tons of posts saying "Oh no, I HEARD you can't do that". I finally found credible posts that not only said, but showed you could.

Second -- Schematics. I found the schematics for each generator after a short Google search. Note the circle around the wiring for the outlets vs. the "Parallel Ports" - on both generators they are tied directly to the outlet.
WORSE YET-- The parallel ports on the 2000 BYPASS the breaker! Why did they do that???

So I made a simple 15a double-male cord using some heavy duty 12ga cord. Honda uses the "Parallel Kit" plugs for safety-- I just made a completely exposed double male cord. If you're drunk enough to grab hold of it while it's plugged into a running generator, you get bit. Honda's Parallel Kit - you can't get bit.

***There is no special signalling, sync'ing, or voodoo pixie dust on the parallel ports***. The inverters are auto-sensing for the 60hz sync at start up regardless whether you plug into the 110v plug or the parallel ports.

Schematics--
Note the 2000 parallel ports bypass the breaker--




1000 schematic--



My simple cord---



So, first, I of course VERY cautiously lit both off. No problem. I then plugged in my heat-gun. I used that first because it's a purely resistive load, and let's face it, very cheap if I smoked it.

Using a Kill-O-Watt meter, I checked it plugged into the wall first--
1580 watts.

Plugged it into the 1000's outlet, both gen's connected and running--
1550 watts. (a slight voltage difference between wall power and gen power). Both generators raised up off eco-idle and came up.

Removed the Kill-O-Watt meter from the heat gun, and plugged it into the Jumper Cable I made to see how much wattage the 2000 was putting out.
Fired up both Gen's, hit the heat gun again. The load was almost perfectly spread--The 2000 was sending 1040 watts through the circuit, meaning just over 50% of it's capacity. That also means by simple subtraction, the 1000 was putting 510 watts--also arguably close to 50% of it's rating.

Time to try it on the TC.

Left everything on--Converter, tv, Sat dish, etc. Hit the roof air, lit no problem, no struggle. Lit quick, both gen's revv'd up, then both came back down to just above the low-rpm eco speed.

The real test - hit the microwave with the roof air and everything else going. They both sped up, complained a lot, but never went into overload.


So why do all this, (besides to show we can) --
I can use the 1000 for charging batteries, leave the 2000 at home. It uses half the gas the 2000 does.
The 2000 - good for running everything, or just the roof air alone in ideal conditions (low altitude, no other power drain). Leave the 1000 at home.
Both gens - it's hot out, I'm camping in the mountains, and need the roof air.
But it's also nice to know I don't have to drag around a big, heavy $2200 EU3000i if I don't need it on any given trip. I can take one VERY small one, one slightly bigger one, or both.
***And the net cost of a 2000 + 1000 is several hundred less than a 3000.***

Worth noting--I also have a 2KW inverter w/6 batteries, so these gen's are not going to see a lot of use.
  • wnjj's avatar
    wnjj
    Explorer II
    Boatycall wrote:
    Second -- Schematics. I found the schematics for each generator after a short Google search. Note the circle around the wiring for the outlets vs. the "Parallel Ports" - on both generators they are tied directly to the outlet.
    WORSE YET-- The parallel ports on the 2000 BYPASS the breaker! Why did they do that???


    They have to connect them behind the breaker. If they connected on the other side of it you could pull all 30A from the 20A receptacle on the non-companion model. The breaker is there to protect the 20A receptacle and anything plugged into it.

    If you pull too much from the paralleled setup, the electronic overload protection will kick in.


    Nice write-up. We have several 2000 models and a 1000 model in the family. It's good to know we can gang a couple together if needed. A 'Y' cable with 2-20A male feeding a 30A female receptacle would make a nice setup for non-companion models.
  • Ha ha you never heard that term? Any power cord with a male on both ends is a "suicide cord".

    Really good info and thanks again for posting!
  • Been done. There are lots of videos and forum DIYs. I have seen 3-4 Hondas of every size paralleled.
  • BurbMan wrote:
    That's not a power strip, that's the kill-a-watt meter measuring load.

    So Boaty, what I am taking away from this is that a) a 2000 and a 1000 can be paralleled together to make 3000 watts, and b) I don't need to pay $200 for a special parallel cord, I can just use a suicide cord to connects the gens together via their outlets. Caution here is be sure the polarity is correct on the cord so (+) to (+) and (-) to (-).

    Am I missing anything?


    Nope, you worded that perfectly. And I love the term "suicide cord" btw... :B

    I didn't check the TOTAL max output of both together, but I'd assume it's close to the max. Roof Air, converter/charger, tv, dish and microwave all running at once should be pretty close.
  • Boatycall wrote:
    ...But it's also nice to know I don't have to drag around a big, heavy $2200 EU3000i if I don't need it on any given trip.


    That's exactly why I opted for a pair of gens instead of the behemoth 3000i.

    And I do the same as you, if I don't need the A/C, one of the generators stays home.
  • I have seen enough videos and read enough technical and anecdotal information to realize that the Honda "myths" are CYA on the part of Honda.

    It will almost certainly work, but on the odd chance it doesn't Honda does not want to shoulder any of the responsibility. They told you no, you went and did it anyway and got bit. Not Honda's fault, and I don't blame them a bit.
  • That's not a power strip, that's the kill-a-watt meter measuring load.

    So Boaty, what I am taking away from this is that a) a 2000 and a 1000 can be paralleled together to make 3000 watts, and b) I don't need to pay $200 for a special parallel cord, I can just use a suicide cord to connects the gens together via their outlets. Caution here is be sure the polarity is correct on the cord so (+) to (+) and (-) to (-).

    Am I missing anything?
  • Looking at your picture to verify your "potentially dangerous" connections -

    The cord from the 2000 is the male-to-male plugged into the 2000 and a female plug on the power strip.

    The cord for the power strip is plugged into the 1000.

    Am I reading your picture correctly?

    On edit: Comment - for those that would try this DIY - the hot, neutral, and ground wires were all verified as one-to-one when you did this and that would be important for anyone else wanting to try this.

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