Honda EU2000i carburetor rebuild kit

We have a rebuild sticky post right here, but I don't know if it's worth anything as all the "free host" pictures are gone and apparently not being replaced. It's 24 pages.

Not sure why you would need an overhaul at just 100 hours. Does it need it?

2oldman wrote:
We have a rebuild sticky post right here, but I don't know if it's worth anything as all the "free host" pictures are gone and apparently not being replaced. It's 24 pages.

Not sure why you would need an overhaul at just 100 hours. Does it need it?

Please see OP. I have to tear it down to replace jet anyway.

I've seen sticky thread. Not looking for "how to do it". Looking for parts info, if needed.

Generally, as long as you do not damage or tear the gaskets, you can usually reuse them multiple times before needing to replace.

Looks like gasket kit is running $13 and new generic replacement carbs are starting at $37.

HERE

Might be a real toss on that one to outfit one carb with high altitude jet.. That carb looks like it is a bit of a challenge to replace with the stepper motor and hoses.. Not a simple change out..

The jet should be accessible just by dropping the fuel bowl which depending on how much room you have may be easier to just swap jets than the entire carb..

But if you really want to change carbs, I have had good success with lower priced aftermarket carbs on B&S and Tecumseh engines..

Even if he replaces the carb, he still has to put in new jet(s) for the altitude, still may have to change out the seals.
Unknown how long the new one has been sitting on the shelf.

Admin

Admin wrote:
Even if he replaces the carb, he still has to put in new jet(s) for the altitude, still may have to change out the seals.
Unknown how long the new one has been sitting on the shelf.

Admin

New unused carbs sitting on a shelf should not have gaskets and seals going bad.

Small engine carbs are dirt simple, unless you rip or tear the gasket, it will be reusable. There is only one "paper" gasket in the gasket kit that might cause an issue. However, in a pinch a new one can easily be constructed from lightweight cardboard from even a cereal box.

Even the "O" ring for the carb bowl could be replaced by a cardboard gasket made from a cereal box in a pinch..

This isn't like your needing to replace a head gasket, you just needing a way to create enough seal under a light vacuum so you get the correct air/fuel mix.. and for the bowl, just enough seal to not leak fuel..

Used to reuse Holley fuel bowl gaskets many, many times when changing jets on the metering plate and not to mention the little "O" rings that went on the fuel tube between front bowl and rear bowl on four barrel carbs..

As long as it isn't ripped or mutilated it can often be reused.

I just don't think OP is going to really want to swap carbs in this case, it most likely will be easier to drop the fuel bowl and change the jet when needed.

I would swap on that $35 carb with the jet ready to go. Carbs are easy until they aren't. Then they are a PITN.

I live at almost exactly 5500 feet, and I wouldn't change the jet. Worst case is you use a touch more gas.

I typically use my generators at 1500 to 3300 feet elevation. I have used one of my Hondas at over 7000 feet with no noticeable difference in running.

If you really think you want to do it, the orings do not need to be replaced, just be careful with your disassembly.

Heres a thread with pics for the carb.

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29903263.cfm

Gdetrailer - No argument from here.

:)

dryfly wrote:
Assuming all existing parts are in good shape, what needs to be replaced? One video I watched stated the large O ring type gasket between the float chamber and carb body, as well as the float valve seat need to be replaced anytime an overhaul is done. Is this usually true?

Actually that is the gasket that usually survives because it is made out of neoprene ! Do not clean that gasket in any thing except warm water and soap. Many carburetor cleaners will cause it to swell and then you can not re-assemble. If you find that it HAS swollen. wash in warm water and dish soap and let thoroughly dry.

If you are going to replace the main jet (31) (up inside the tube that holds the emulsion tube - 12) you need a special screwdriver. Briggs makes them or buy a "gunsmith" hollow ground screwdriver. Not expensive. (Typical straight blade screwdrivers "flare" outwards and can not reach inside the tube where the main jet lives.)

There are a couple of "hidden" passages that you might want to TRY and get to. #5 is idle/pilot air bleed adjustment. It is covered by a cap. By careful if you try to remove the cap as the screw may BREAK https://youtu.be/kMw91fiIXNc?t=242 ! Also #32 is the idle/pilot jet. It is plastic and goes straight down into the carburetor and held there by the throttle stop screw (11).