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BFL13's avatar
BFL13
Explorer II
Sep 23, 2015

Converter Size Tactics Question

This will not be of concern to most, but may be of interest. I am not certain of my plan, so any comments welcomed.

The problem arose when I stuffed my 100amp PowerMax adjustable voltage (called a PMBC-100) converter/power supply in the old truck- camper to be its "converter" set at 13.8v when away from home. The locations for that camping have 15a 120v shore power connections on long wire. It usually all works great.

However, it happened that the power went out at one of those places in a wind storm (trees fell on lines) so by the time power was restored, the batts were down, and the converter kicked on (100amper although PF corrected) and so did everything else come on all at once, which popped the breaker up where the 15a shore power was coming from.

So, since around here that can happen again, I decided that the 100 amper is too much for this role, even when set at 13.8v. So I decided to get a 55amper instead. I think it (non-PF corrected) will pull fewer VA than the PF-corrected 100 amper --but not by much?)

So my choices are now--

A. Yank the 13.8 fixed voltage 7355 converter (lower portion) from the 5er and stick that in the TC, and use the PMBC-55 adjustable voltage as the 5er's new converter, or

B. Just put the new PowerMax 55amper PMBC in the TC, set at say, 13.8v (the "converter" set-up in the TC is portable, so I can still use it in the 5er or garage as required)

I just don't know if it would still pop a breaker up at the "pedestal" either way, where the 100amper did. (Some kind of surge with the high amps at first I figure, since it is rated for a 15a circuit)

At home on shore power, the TC just needs a battery maintainer, which can be my 2 amp 13.4v job, which works great, or any amps size of fixed voltage converter (I have used the adjustable voltage 100 amper for this too) but the 2amper is useless as a converter away from home, where as soon as you turn on a light (3 amps) it (2 amps) falls behind.

So I am looking at having a 55amp, fixed voltage "converter" for when on shore power away from home, but where it might get cut off once in a while, and I don't want to pop the "pedestal" breaker when power comes back on.

So, what would be the way to go? Thanks.

PS. I was also hoping to use the PMBC for its 16.5v to equalize my T-1275s, but I am told they have put a new board in those, which has a lower max voltage range to maybe 15.8v (Web-site specs to be updated on that)
  • BFL-13, Understood with the wife and if you are not there, but her education can save you a lot of money.

    "If power goes out, turn this dial to here, afterwards, you can turn it to here."

    And with the money you save you can send me beer :)

    My Meanwell rsp-500-15 only goes down to 13.12v and if my AGM battery is low it will still do 25 amps on startup( max of 40amps ), but I know my friends 100 amp adjustable voltage Powermax will go as low as 12.0 volts.

    We are going to add another fan to it for a push pull scenario:


    Might also swap out to a 10 turn potentiometer as a 90 degree sweep of the provided pot goes from 12.0 to 15.5v making 14.46v hard to dial in precisely.

    JiminDenver, the adjustable voltage powermax in the 100 amp or 120 flavor would be a good option for you, if you actually get the model you order. I think this issue would have to be sorted out by now.
  • JiminDenver wrote:
    My bank ate my Megawatt so when I get it replaced, it will be on float duty. Should be fine for that without being borged out.

    Can the PMBC-100 run full out for two or three hours? I see they have a 120a model too.


    It can run at full out forever. It is meant to be a power supply (such as in a car dealer's showroom), not to be a converter as such. However, I can't see why not to use it as a converter as long as I change the voltage settings to suit the situation.

    As a converter my 100 stays at constant 103amps till the battery bank demands a tapering amps when the battery voltage tops out (at 14.8 in my normal setting)

    Yes, I would like that 120 amper available now, instead of my 100 (biggest back then) combined with my Vec 40. It doesn't take long before you are down from 140 to 120 anyway on my size of bank (four 6s starting at 50%)

    This whole deal is interesting IMO, because I am trying to find a limit on the converter, where usually people want a max.
  • landyacht318 wrote:
    Mark 12.5v on the 100 amp powermax potentiometer.

    Turn it to that when the power goes out. Even if batteries are 12.2v when power comes back on, few amps will flow and not trip the 15 amp breaker.

    Later, crank it up to you pre marked on the dial favorite absorption voltage and let those amps fly into those thirsty batteries.


    That could work for sure. Not so sure if I am not there but DW is, where she is not 100% up on all this stuff. :) Phone calls to do this and that are not the best method! :(

    Yes, I have posted before about using a "marker pen" on the casing top around the knob to mark some favourite voltages so you can set it to them without a voltmeter.
  • My bank ate my Megawatt so when I get it replaced, it will be on float duty. Should be fine for that without being borged out.

    Can the PMBC-100 run full out for two or three hours? I see they have a 120a model too.
  • Missed the 'adjustable' part. Why not use one of those Megawatt power supplies everyone keeps bragging on?

    Possibly set the 55 amper to just 13.4 volts while doing float service.
    (maybe more when it gets cold out)
  • Smk, it may not be so "freakish" around here! I did look at other choices of regular lower amp converters, but was hoping to get that high voltage above 16v for my T-1275 equalizing as well. (Sadly, that is not to be, at 15.8 max now.)

    I can still get more utility from the adjustable 55 amp PMBC swapping between the 5er and the TC than getting a regular converter of any brand. Eg I think I can use the 55 and the 100 together instead of the 40 VEC and the 100 with the Honda 3000, but it would be close.

    It might not have even been the converter that did it, but the fridge going back to AC at the same time the converter came on. I just don't know.

    I do know I need a better "converter" for being on 15a shore power on a long wire (low voltage) than the 2a 13.4 maintainer, that is only good at home, and the breaker popped with the 100 amper doing that job.
  • Mark 12.5v on the 100 amp powermax potentiometer.

    Turn it to that when the power goes out. Even if batteries are 12.2v when power comes back on, few amps will flow and not trip the 15 amp breaker.

    Later, crank it up to you pre marked on the dial favorite absorption voltage and let those amps fly into those thirsty batteries.
  • I never thought it would come to this...

    One of the solar earliest adopters/bestest mentors/gurus/twirlers and experimental geniuses having to rely on a pedestal for battery charging, lol. :B

    I'm sure you'll come up with the best solution for you, BFL, but I would think a low draw tender would be in the cards.

    Good luck with whatever you choose and keep us informed.
  • 13.8? Why not just use the 7355? Generally I would change nothing just for a single freak event.

    Otherwise I would have gone with PD4635 for less draw and better charging.

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