I'm trying to get a handle on how to properly charge my two new Trojan T-105's. I'm replacing two Deka Intimidator AGM,s that are 7 years old. Trojan recommends a Staged charger, with specific voltage and amps. My 2002 Hurricane has a Fortron Power SRV series converter with a 13.6 +/-0.2 VDC output. Should I expect this converter to keep these batteries in proper charge and condition? I will only use the motorhome 2-3 times a year, for 2-3 weeks at a time.

Welcome to rv.net!Did a quick look at your converter data sheet on web. I would not trust it as it has a fixed output. It can boil your batteries.

YES the 13.6VDC output will re-charge your two new T105 6VDC batteries connected in series however it will take a good 12 hours or more to charge them.Also with the 13.6VDC constant DC VOLTAGE output from your single mode converter/charger will boil out your battery fluids if left on charge for a long period of time. You will need to keep checking the battery fluids to be sure they have not been boil;ed out. You really need to replace the converter/charger with a smart mode converter/charger and should be at least a 45-55AMP model for the two T105 batteries. BESTCONVERTERs is a good place to get a replacement model.The multi-mode smart converter/chargers will really take good care of your T-105 batteries for you. The smart mode converter/chargers can also re-charge your T-105 battery bank when connected to the 120VAC receptacle from a generator in about three hours generator run time when camping off the power grid. Roy Ken

Is there a way to disable the charging output on the converter, and just use a stand alone, or portable smart charger?

The fixed 13.6 volts will chronically undercharge the Trojans.You really need a Progressive Dynamics with charge wizard or IOTA with IQ Controller.If you are mostly plugged in while camped the Powermax will also serve you well.www.bestconverter.comJust do not let Randy sell you a WFCO.

I'll go at this from a different angle.IF the charger renders the batteries fully charged (this means 100.0%) within 72 hours after reconnection after a trip, then the system you have is viable.Only you and a good hydrometer can determine whether or not this specification can be met. The SPEED the swiftness of the recharge is part of a formula.13.6 volts at 80F will NOT boil the batteries. Not means NO, not partially no, but 100% no. 13.6 volts WILL boil a battery that is near death anyway from antimony poisoning of the negative plates.It would take a constant battery internals temperature of +90F or greater before 13.6 volts would become a significant concern.CAVEAT: But if the unit is not used it would be wisest to mechanically (electrically) disconnect the battery or batteries out of circuit and use a battery maintenance charger. The batteries must be 100% charged before being stored with a maintainer.

Converter/Charger | Good Sam Community

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Jan 04, 2015
3Lakes Steve wrote:
Went shopping on E-Bay last night, Decided on American made PD9260C with pendant, $175 delivered. Chinese 5-40V, 0-300A Battery monitor from Elite.Element, $38.80 to my door. Looks like it provides all the info and parts of the more expensive units, hope it works. also picked up 12 1156, 27 LED replacement bulbs for $2.00 ea.

Going to have to do some stretching exercise before I install, The RV engineers worked hard to put the electrical systems in the most inaccessible areas.

Thank for the help
Steve

2 plus one comments

First comment: Re the 9200.. I have done some serious research into converters and a better one I have yet to find, Congrats.

Now the plus one: Re the China stuff, I can not comment as I have not either researched or used that (OH, I have a 9180 with chrage wizard, makes it into a 9280 with pendent for all practical uses).

Comment two: Re: "Let's make it hard to service"

I think they hold a contest and the one who does the best job of making a service technician cuss gets the prize.
3Lakes_Steve
Explorer
Feb 25, 2015
Getting ready to mount the new converter, I have a spot about 4'from the battery bank that I think would work, and better than the current location of 20'.

My thought was to run new 2 awg to the batteries, and leave the existing cables to the old converter in place. I would just unplug it and leave as a backup?

My Trojan batteries have a stud on top, but don't think it's tall enough for 3 lugs. Any Ideas?

The converter will be in living room, in a small table/cabinet above the battery bay. Do you think fan noise will be a problem?

Thanks, Steve
BFL13
Explorer II
Feb 25, 2015
3Lakes Steve wrote:
Getting ready to mount the new converter, I have a spot about 4'from the battery bank that I think would work, and better than the current location of 20'.

My thought was to run new 2 awg to the batteries, and leave the existing cables to the old converter in place. I would just unplug it and leave as a backup?

My Trojan batteries have a stud on top, but don't think it's tall enough for 3 lugs. Any Ideas?

The converter will be in living room, in a small table/cabinet above the battery bay. Do you think fan noise will be a problem?

Thanks, Steve

You can use a bus bar when running out of battery post height. Run the bus bar to the battery post and attach the other wires to the bus bar terminals.

Yes, the existing wire from battery to DC fuse panel will also work for your deck mounted converter near the batteries to reach the DC fuse panel
time2roll
Nomad
Feb 25, 2015
Not sure #2 will fit the converter terminals. #4 would be fine.

Yes just disconnect 120v power from the old converter.

Three lugs should fit... depends on the lugs.

Fan should mostly stay off unless heavy charging or lots of incandescent lights are on. Should be off when sleeping.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Feb 25, 2015
The fewer the terminals at the battery the fewer there are to corrode. Reconstructing a half dozen terminations is a bummer. Chew on this: Battery replacement time. Two cables versus the three that fall hidden behind the batteries. A buss bar is a touch of common sense
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Feb 25, 2015
A flattened piece of copper pipe and copper bolts makes an excellent bus bar. Here's a bus bar that supports a battery monitor shunt. And just so you know this shunt and the Trimetric battery monitor cost me $0 on the current rig. Well OK it cost more than that on the last rig. :B
time2roll
Nomad
Feb 25, 2015
Here are two terminals with three on one post.

BTW I have not cleaned these posts since installed in January 2006.
Wingnuts are stainless.
jrnymn7
Explorer
Feb 25, 2015
Good Quality Bus Bars
3Lakes_Steve
Explorer
Feb 25, 2015
CA Traveler- Is that a piece of copper water pipe? This may work for me, as this is a temporary set-up until the weather warms up, and I can complete my new wiring. I'm leaving for Texas next week on my first trip with the MH.

The plan is to use the living room cabinet for the new converter, a 300W inverter, and the cheapo Chinese meter. This cabinet is directly above the battery bay, which has room to add an enclosure box to house
the bus bars, shunt, a few fuses, and a main disconnect. At that point, only 1 set of cables will run to the batteries.

smkettner- I have 2 lugs on the positive terminal now, I'm thinking 1 is the engine alternator, and the other to the DC fuse panel. The top of the stud barely gets through the nut.
Steve
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Feb 25, 2015
3Lakes Steve wrote:
CA Traveler- Is that a piece of copper water pipe? Yes

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