Converter/Charger

Yes, the furnace would be the big eater.
Then lights. It would be good idea to change out the ones used the most with LED type. Biggest problem we had was getting ones with sufficient light output. Need to identify how many candle power the existing ones have and get ones that are at least that much.

Thanks for the advice, I'm thinking the Iota 55A w/IQ might be the best choice. The voltage outputs on the charger seem to match up well with Trojan's recommendations. I'll probably be plugged in most of the time, but plan on visiting the National forest campgrounds in Northern Wisconsin and the UP this summer.

Does anyone know what systems gobble up the DC Amps the most? I'm thinking the furnace, and water pump must be the biggest draws. Does it make any sense to replace the 12V lighting with LED? I'm going to get a small 150-300W inverter for the TV at night.

If I got this all right, my Two T105's should give me 220AH of stored power, and I can safely use 110AH before recharging.

You don't normally have to disable the 13.8 converter to run a portable charger that goes to 14.x, but if the portable won't run with the converter on, try just unplugging shore power, run the portable first to get going, then plug shore power back in. Then the two will both work, but the 14.x volt charger will do all the recharging.

Will you be dry camping or pedestal camping?

Will you have time and/or noise limits for generator use?

What will be your daily Ah usage?

...

What MEX and smk said.

I'll go at this from a different angle.

IF the charger renders the batteries fully charged (this means 100.0%) within 72 hours after reconnection after a trip, then the system you have is viable.

Only you and a good hydrometer can determine whether or not this specification can be met. The SPEED the swiftness of the recharge is part of a formula.

13.6 volts at 80F will NOT boil the batteries. Not means NO, not partially no, but 100% no. 13.6 volts WILL boil a battery that is near death anyway from antimony poisoning of the negative plates.

It would take a constant battery internals temperature of +90F or greater before 13.6 volts would become a significant concern.

CAVEAT: But if the unit is not used it would be wisest to mechanically (electrically) disconnect the battery or batteries out of circuit and use a battery maintenance charger. The batteries must be 100% charged before being stored with a maintainer.

The fixed 13.6 volts will chronically undercharge the Trojans.
You really need a Progressive Dynamics with charge wizard or IOTA with IQ Controller.
If you are mostly plugged in while camped the Powermax will also serve you well.

www.bestconverter.com
Just do not let Randy sell you a WFCO.

Is there a way to disable the charging output on the converter, and just use a stand alone, or portable smart charger?

YES the 13.6VDC output will re-charge your two new T105 6VDC batteries connected in series however it will take a good 12 hours or more to charge them.

Also with the 13.6VDC constant DC VOLTAGE output from your single mode converter/charger will boil out your battery fluids if left on charge for a long period of time. You will need to keep checking the battery fluids to be sure they have not been boil;ed out.

You really need to replace the converter/charger with a smart mode converter/charger and should be at least a 45-55AMP model for the two T105 batteries. BESTCONVERTERs is a good place to get a replacement model.

The multi-mode smart converter/chargers will really take good care of your T-105 batteries for you. The smart mode converter/chargers can also re-charge your T-105 battery bank when connected to the 120VAC receptacle from a generator in about three hours generator run time when camping off the power grid.

Roy Ken

Welcome to rv.net!
Did a quick look at your converter data sheet on web.
I would not trust it as it has a fixed output. It can boil your batteries.