Cool cat ac/Heat pump, not cooling

It can be recharged but at expense of install, and risk of not getting the very touchy charge ounces right. Problems with these units are often electrical. Usually if it leaks or needs a compressor, replace. Controls, capacitors, fan, repair. I think I remember you from before.

I don't remember if I posted a question on this last year or not. I lost my dad last July and everything else was pushed aside for awhile. I am not a tech so I won't be testing anything myself. I was just trying to find out if these can be recharged or not, and if they still make the units or not if I need to replace it. I couldn't find them on the Dometic site. It is not a roof unit, it is under the rear bed. The compressor does come on when it is set to the cool mode and you drop the thermostat down, but no cold air is coming out. I don't use AC often so I'm not even sure if I will replace it. If I do want to head south with it someday, I will need a working AC unit.
I was in Home Depot and saw that LG is making a window unit that is a combo AC with heat. I may look into adapting that somehow if all else fails.
Thanks for the input.

Bob,

Have you discussed this before?

Or Steve,

Have you?

This sounds familiar...

If Steve's theory holds up, might be good to install a relay to power up that reversing valve. A vague signal from Switch/Thermostat would have to only trigger the coil in the relay, not the load represented by the valve's coil.

My Cool Cat exhibits the same or a similar problem when switching from heat mode to cool mode. I've discovered, thru trial and error, that just nudging the thermostat to the point where the cool mode should be activated doesn't always work. The unit does come on and it's not providing heat, but it also isn't cooling. When I put the thermostat into the coldest point then the Cool Cat switches into cool mode and runs fine. At that point I can set the thermostat to any desired temp and it will cycle correctly as long as I don't put it back into heat mode.

My theory is that the signal from the thermostat calling for cooling is somewhat variable (either resistance or voltage) and when the Set Point is close to ambient the signal isn't strong enough to cause the Cool Cat to activate the reversing valve that switches it between heat and cool. Putting the thermostat into the coldest point probably provides a stronger signal.

Let's try to narrow the problem down.

Is there power to the Compressor?

Is the Compressor Starting?

What Current Draw is the Compressor producing?

Is the Compressor RUN Capacitor (sometimes marked "HERM" for hermetically sealed refrigerant system) GOOD?

To do this, you'd need:

Meter that can test Capacitors, OR a known good capacitor close to or same MFD (or uF) rating and voltage of the one that's in it.

Volt meter to check for power to Compressor (ordinary DVOM, even the free Harbor Fright one, can do that, and better ones can also check capacitors)

Clamp-ON AC Ammeter to check Compressor Current Draw

SAFETY OBSERVER!!! You'll be on the roof and working with electricity.

Want to tinker, we'll try to help.

Heat pumps and nothing more or less than an AC unit. They become inefficient below about 40 degrees. Yes, any honest AC service tech might be able to check it for leaks and fix it. The big IF is does it have charge ports or is it a sealed unit?