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SoundGuy
Explorer
Sep 30, 2016

CTEK Multi US 7002 Charger

Our current trailer is equipped with a WFCO 8955 converter which has never bulk charged at it's rated 14.4 volts ... the most I've ever seen is ~ 13.73 volts even when the battery has been depleted below 50%. My alternate is a so-called "intelligent" Nautilus brand deep cycle charger (a Canadian Tire brand) which also never achieves a true bulk charge. :M Recently I had the opportunity to buy a CTEK Mulit US 7002 Charger for $140 Cdn or ~ $105 US, about the best price I've seen for one here in Canada. :) I've been using it for a week now and no question, it does what it's claimed to do :B ... bulk mode seems to start around 14.1 volts but gradually rises to 14.4 volts until such time as it goes on to the next stage. I cover my trailer tongue whenever it's parked so I found a spot on the tongue where the CTEK can be completely protected from the elements but can be connected directly to the battery with the supplied charging cable. Nothing to complain about, works great, but here's the rub .... :W

It's maximum charge rate is 7 amps and although the online specs claim it's suitable for charging a battery (or batteries) with a capacity ranging from 14 - 225 AH the supplied User Manual says 14 - 150 AH. My current single G29 Interstate is now 9 yrs old so I'd like to upgrade next spring to a pair of batteries, either two GC-2s or two G31s, but in either case with a total AH rating somewhere in the 210 - 230 AH rating it would seem the 7002 wouldn't be suitable. If I believe the User's Manual's maximum 150 AH rating I'd be better off with the CTEK Multi US 25000 which offers a maximum charge rate of 25 amps and is rated online for a battery bank capacity of 50 - 500 AH. The solution seems obvious - return the 7002 and order a 25000, the catch being the cost of a 25000 here in Canada is well over $400. :E If I'm going to spend that much I'd be inclined to instead swap out the crappy WFCO with a Progressive Dynamics 9260 with included charge wizard. I have a concern though - my converter is located at the rear of the trailer and considering it's likely wired with maximum 6 gauge cable voltage drop may interfere with the PD's ability to fully apply a true 14.4 volt bulk charge to the batteries. OTOH, a CTEK 2500 could live at the battery location and would (based on my experience with the 7002) easily be capable of applying a 14.4 volt bulk charge to the batteries. FWIW, we don't normally dry camp much but I have 2 reasons for upgrading my battery reserve - 1) the G27 is now 9 yrs old and is no doubt nearing the end of it's useful life, and 2) at those times we may lose campsite shore power the G27 alone is marginally capable of powering my 1000 watt PSW inverter whereas a pair of GC-2s or G31s would significantly improve this situation.

What to do? ... I could keep the 7002 and plan on charging two future G31s individually but that won't help if I go with a pair of GC-2s. Any thoughts from forum battery gurus? :@

9 Replies

  • BFL13 wrote:
    IMO return the 7 amper if they will let you. $140 for a 7 amp charger is crazy IMO. And $400 for a 25 amper? Holy Cow! A proper 55 amp converter is well under $300 (ordered from the States--stay clear of our RV dealer stores :( )

    What to do? Keep the existing converter for when on shore power. Get a real charger (45-60 amper) for fast charging when you need to do that, and also for its higher voltage to keep your batteries healthy by gassing them instead of only seeing 13.6v all the time.

    You can make your own portable fast charger by just getting a deck mount converter and use a cut-off end of heavy gauge jumper cables for the wire/clamp set. Too easy.

    BTW, this one here for example, has a goofy 3 stage charging profile but you can take the lid off and twiddle the little blue voltage pot inside and make it into a single voltage charger at your chosen voltage--like 14.8v
    .
    It then will do two-stage charging (bulk and absorption) at your chosen Vabs till the batts are charged right up, then you can turn it off and go to your regular converter to do the Float.

    ***Link Removed***

    Here is the same thing but with cables--but you can make your own cable/clamp set by cutting the end off a set of jumper cables

    ***Link Removed***

    If you want the best version of this it costs more, but has great features--adjustable voltage by external knob so no need to take the lid off and twiddle the little pot inside and maybe fry something by accident, and a voltmeter on top option. You can still make your own cable set.

    ***Link Removed***

    I bought that same adjustable in 75 amps from bestconverter for $220. Love it. New here but it caught my attention. We use them for lithium ion
  • SoundGuy wrote:
    Brilliant idea :B ... I already have my PSW inverter mounted in the front storage compartment, no reason I couldn't also locate a second converter in there as well. I'd leave the trailer wired as it is with the WFCO and just turn it off but if / when we ever sell the trailer simply remove the PD. Since I "know a guy" I can get a 9260 for less than the cost of a CTEK 25000 ... seems like a plan. Thanks! :)


    brulaz wrote:
    That does work and is exactly what we're doing.

    My main problem is that when boondocking and before I turn on the inverter, I have to be sure to go outside and unplug the converter/charger in the pass-thru, as it simply plugs into an existing 120VAC socket I had previously installed there. The WFCO's breaker is more convenient. But if your inverter/shore power 120VAC lines are separate, that wouldn't be an issue
    .


    No worries in my case. Originally I fed my trailer "whole house" from the inverter but have since ditched that idea and instead installed dedicated receptacles fed directly by the inverter so there's therefore no need for a transfer switch, no need to turn the converter off. I've already installed a switched 120 vac feed in the front pass through I can use to power the PD9260 and would just be using it to charge / maintain the batteries ... the WFCO I'd just leave turned off permanently.
  • " But if your inverter/shore power 120VAC lines are separate, that wouldn't be an issue"

    Just so there is no confusion with that wording :) You would want a transfer switch if the sources are separate so you don't get two 120s at the same time and make 240v to fry your appliances.
  • SoundGuy wrote:

    ...
    Brilliant idea :B ... I already have my PSW inverter mounted in the front storage compartment, no reason I couldn't also locate a second converter in there as well. I'd leave the trailer wired as it is with the WFCO and just turn it off but if / when we ever sell the trailer simply remove the PD. Since I "know a guy" I can get a 9260 for less than the cost of a CTEK 25000 ... seems like a plan. Thanks! :)


    That does work and is exactly what we're doing.

    My main problem is that when boondocking and before I turn on the inverter, I have to be sure to go outside and unplug the converter/charger in the pass-thru, as it simply plugs into an existing 120VAC socket I had previously installed there. The WFCO's breaker is more convenient. But if your inverter/shore power 120VAC lines are separate, that wouldn't be an issue.
  • landyacht318 wrote:
    The PD9260-14.8 would be my automatic converter of choice, if I wanted a converter. At least It can be forced to seek 14.8v at the touch of a button, and hold it for 4 hours.

    Place it close to the batteries. Nobody says you have to put a new converter in the same location as the near useless Wfco.


    Brilliant idea :B ... I already have my PSW inverter mounted in the front storage compartment, no reason I couldn't also locate a second converter in there as well. I'd leave the trailer wired as it is with the WFCO and just turn it off but if / when we ever sell the trailer simply remove the PD. Since I "know a guy" I can get a 9260 for less than the cost of a CTEK 25000 ... seems like a plan. Thanks! :)
  • I once considered the 25000 Ctek, but was turned off that with the battery temp sensor included in cable clamps, it was not designed to be hardwired, and I did not want to void the warranty by doing so, nor did i want alligator clamps permanently attached to a battery.

    The PD9260-14.8 would be my automatic converter of choice, if I wanted a converter. At least It can be forced to seek 14.8v at the touch of a button, and hold it for 4 hours.

    Place it close to the batteries. Nobody says you have to put a new converter in the same location as the near useless Wfco.
  • IMO return the 7 amper if they will let you. $140 for a 7 amp charger is crazy IMO. And $400 for a 25 amper? Holy Cow! A proper 55 amp converter is well under $300 (ordered from the States--stay clear of our RV dealer stores :( )

    What to do? Keep the existing converter for when on shore power. Get a real charger (45-60 amper) for fast charging when you need to do that, and also for its higher voltage to keep your batteries healthy by gassing them instead of only seeing 13.6v all the time.

    You can make your own portable fast charger by just getting a deck mount converter and use a cut-off end of heavy gauge jumper cables for the wire/clamp set. Too easy.

    BTW, this one here for example, has a goofy 3 stage charging profile but you can take the lid off and twiddle the little blue voltage pot inside and make it into a single voltage charger at your chosen voltage--like 14.8v
    .
    It then will do two-stage charging (bulk and absorption) at your chosen Vabs till the batts are charged right up, then you can turn it off and go to your regular converter to do the Float.

    http://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/powermax-pm3-55-55-amp-power-converter.html

    Here is the same thing but with cables--but you can make your own cable/clamp set by cutting the end off a set of jumper cables

    http://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/powermax-pmbc-55-charger.html

    If you want the best version of this it costs more, but has great features--adjustable voltage by external knob so no need to take the lid off and twiddle the little pot inside and maybe fry something by accident, and a voltmeter on top option. You can still make your own cable set.

    http://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/powermax-pmbc-55adj-converter.html
  • MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
    The only time 14.4 volts is adequate is when generator run time is not an issue.


    For me it wouldn't ... I sold my second EU2000i earlier this year for lack of use and always seem to recharge using shore power. Progressive Dynamics does offer 14.8 volt version converters as well but likely unnecessary for my situation.
  • Some claim the Boondocker, eliminates some of the 80% - 100% capacity charging issues. I am going one better - A DPDT 120 vac relay with push-button activation.

    Push 30 min, 60 min, 2 hours or 6 hours. Activates a 120vac power relay. The relay switches the conventional converter off, and at the same time switches a 36 amp Megawatt ON. When the timing cycle is completed, the absence of power releases the relay, and the converter cuts in.

    The difference in charging between 14.4 volts and 14.8 volts is substantial for the final 10% of battery capacity.

    Don't think that last 10% of capacity matters? Go argue with your sulfated battery, not me. The only time 14.4 volts is adequate is when generator run time is not an issue.

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