Damon Challenger Electrical Problem

Hi,

There is often a battery disconnect switch.

http://rvroadtrip.us/library/12v_system.php

Love how they come up with those model names. Spell yours backward.

This is a question and a legitimate one readers so don't throw sand or I'll nail you with my shovel.

Newer RV's. Battery disconnect switch. OEM (factory). Do any of them chop off the battery but leave the converter inline and powering the load? I like to keep ahead of the crazies who design newer RV's.

Welcome Joe. I see you found the site! If you don't get the answer you need here, try IRV2 forum.

Karen and Al

Welcome Joe. I see you found the site! If you don't get the answer you need here, try IRV2 forum.

Karen and Al

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Newer RV's. Battery disconnect switch. OEM (factory). Do any of them chop off the battery but leave the converter inline and powering the load? I like to keep ahead of the crazies who design newer RV's.

My 2007 Winnebago leaves the converter powering the RV with the battery disconnected.

I am a bit confused reading the original post.
The converter converts 120vac to 12vdc (ok, 13-14.6 vdc to both charge the battery and run lights, fans, furnace, and assorted other 12 volt control boards and such.. Normally it does not power the Television (Though no reason you can't have a 12 volt TV)

An INVERTER takes 12 volts and converts it to 120vac which normally powers Televisions.

You should never have a problem with "12 volt stuff" kicking in as if you have a good, 3 stage converter (or an in-line inverter which includes a 3-stage charger module) your batteries should always be on-line and thus if you loose shore/generator power `12 volt continues without interupption.

However if you have an INVERTER and the batteries are weak, low or the connections are in serious need of attention... It won't work.

Hi Mex,

My 2004 works in that manner. It can be useful sometimes. The OEM converter is a PD 40 amp unit.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Newer RV's. Battery disconnect switch. OEM (factory). Do any of them chop off the battery but leave the converter inline and powering the load? I like to keep ahead of the crazies who design newer RV's.

Joe in Largo wrote:
Hello all, I am new to RVs and I am here because I am having issues with my Damon Challenger coach. I am confident that my coach’s battery charger doubles as a converter for the TV and some other appliances. When the generator is off, the 12v does not want to kick in. Do I need that converter to have 12v for lights? Could it possibly be that some fuse or solenoid is also damaged? I’ve checked at all the fuses.

When your MH is unplugged from shore-power, generator turned off, you will only have 12 volt power, if the battery-disconnect is turned on. That means the panel showing battery, water, propane levels, will work. The house-battery disconnect switch might be on this panel. The battery also powers controls for furnace, refrigerator, and water-heater. The ceiling lights and vents are also powered by the battery.

In many MH's if the "Disconnect" switch fails to connect the battery(s) to the circuit, plugging the MH into shore-power will allow the converter/charger to supply 12v, dc, power to lights and the power panel. You can get by for the weekend but your house-batteries are not getting charged (or depleted for that matter) since they are out of the circuit.

All the 120v , AC outlets only work when plugged into shore-power, or generator turned on. Your television built into a cabinet has a 120v, AC plug and is plugged into a standard 120v AC outlet.

The converter/charger only works when plugged into a 120v, AC, outlet, or the generator is running to supply 120v, AC, power. Some MH's like mine need to have the shore-power cord plugged into the generator's 30 amp, 120v, AC outlet. Your MH may have a transfer switch which works automatically.

You most likely do not have an "inverter" which will convert 12v battery power to 120v, AC power for your television when camped without access to shore-power.

If you check your house-batteries and find the voltage to be somewhere between 11.6 volts (20% charge) and 12.6+ volts (100% charge) your 12 volt items will function if the "disconnect" switch was pushed to "on" to make the solenoid (or solid-state isolator) connect the batteries to the 12 volt circuit. The solenoid can fail.

Honorable Chinese need to design MOTORIZED switch. Press a button, common bar moves down upon two contacts and the circuit is made. Motor shuts off. Zero drain. STRONG spring used to maintain contact but motor easily lefts common bar up and off the two contacts. Too simple.

An RV is NOT a boat in which the bilge pumps bypass the master ON/OFF switch. When the master cutoff switches (the 2nd for the engine if the ECU can tolerate it) are opened ZERO meaning .000 milliamperes can pass through the switch.

THUNDERSTORM
"Honey, run and press that switch!"
"But it only disconnects some of the stuff in the house"
"Well the home builder put it in for a reason"
"Ya mean I gotta get out of my Lazy Boy and go all the way to the garage? (!)"