BFL13 wrote:
...snip
He needs to test when that happens with the monitor set to read the amps to the house batts and not just read the voltage. He needs to see if the alternator is supplying amps added to the solar amps or not when that happens.
That's a good test to perform and I'll do it. I can read amps going into the house batteries with the engine on and with it off and do the math. I am curious as to what the alternator is doing when the alt light is lit. I don't have a clamp on amp meter but this might be a good excuse to buy one. I could then test the alternator directly.
BFL13 wrote:
If not, then a Dc-Dc charger could help, where it isolates the alternator system from the house system, but still supplies amps to the house to add to the solar's amps, and it can be set to the same proper battery spec voltage as the solar's so they both add their amps fully.
I don't think a DC-DC charger is in the works mostly because the removal of the present system, which works really well, would be more complex than I think I'm capable of.
BFL13 wrote:
If the RV has a gen that can be run while driving, then the OP could have three chargers on the house to bring them up faster like he wants, if he can set the charger run by the gen to the same voltage as the other two are at.
The coach has a generator but running it while the engine is on would, I think, present the same problem the panels are causing. The generator runs the converter which charges both battery banks. In truth, I've never done it so I'm not 100% sure about that.