Delamination remediation

darsben1 wrote:
I have a small area of delamination just below the RV refrigerator outside access panel.
If I remove the panel completely I would have room to put something in there to reglue the area. spraying would be easiest for me but I want effective. The area extends downward abut 30 inches and side to side about 24 inches.

I am looking for a relatively simple fix that I can do myself.

What are your thoughts?
I am looking for first/second hand experiences. I know how to search and look at YouTube videos on my own.

There are no simple fixes when it comes to delamination. It's like a cancer that needs to be cut out. A new rig may be in order. I'm sure CW have many fine units for you to peruse.

KMLsquared wrote:
Don't mean to hyjack but what if the leak was cured. Is there any harm in not fixing the delam issue?

It can affect structural integrity and if not repaired and dried out the rot may spread

Kayteg1 wrote:

darsben1 wrote:
Keyteg1
How long ago did you do this? I am thinking about the longevity of the repair

I did the first repair about 3 years ago and more last spring.
Bare in mind none of those glues are water-resistant so they will hold as long as there is no water penetration.
On some areas like cord boxes, I used epoxy to laminate the old wood, what adds strength and makes it waterproof, but epoxy has its limits in application and doesn't work too well on vertical surfaces.
If you don't open the bubble and dry it, per my experience the trapped moisture will sit there for a year if no longer - still dry-rotting the wood.

Thanks for your reply

darsben1 wrote:
Keyteg1
How long ago did you do this? I am thinking about the longevity of the repair

I did the first repair about 3 years ago and more last spring.
Bare in mind none of those glues are water-resistant so they will hold as long as there is no water penetration.
On some areas like cord boxes, I used epoxy to laminate the old wood, what adds strength and makes it waterproof, but epoxy has its limits in application and doesn't work too well on vertical surfaces.
If you don't open the bubble and dry it, per my experience the trapped moisture will sit there for a year if no longer - still dry-rotting the wood.

The leak will be stopped when I reinstall the vent

Don't mean to hyjack but what if the leak was cured. Is there any harm in not fixing the delam issue?

I have only done re-lamination by peeling the skin back and drying everything.

There is a video on youtube showing how to inject the glue under the skin. A little simpler for you since it's directly under the fridge vent.

For injecting, I'd suggest liquid polyurethane like Gorilla Glue. If it is still damp the Gorilla Glue reacts faster with moisture. Cures in an hour or so but I'd leave it clamped up for a couple of hours.

You'll need to use a sheet of plywood or particle board as a pressure pad over the de-laminated area as the glue will expand while curing. I've heard several on rv.net say they held the pressure on it by parking close to a building as Kayteg1 said.

I used 2x4s and built a frame around the camper to push against. Then clamped the pressure pad in place using Erwin hand clamps.

Good luck.

P.S. hope you got the leak stopped or it will happen again.

Keyteg1
How long ago did you do this? I am thinking about the longevity of the repair

In my case I had the outside skin coming off in panels, what made the job easier.
After cleaning all rotten/loose stuff I used This glue
Holding the skin during process is the trickiest part as the glue needs couple of days.
I had camper between house and masonry fence, so after finding wide planks or plywood, I put sticks giving it some pressure.
For narrow areas that need glue - I used paint mixing sticks that you can get for free at HD.