Forum Discussion

Jayco-noslide's avatar
Jayco-noslide
Explorer
Apr 18, 2019

Delamination repair

We have a 15 year old 30 ft. Class C with fiberglass outer thin layer bonded to wood. We've already repaired 1 serious area where the outer layer had let go with an online repair kit. Worked well but it was at a corner where it was easy to lift up the fiberglass to get epoxy under it. Have some other fairly small areas not by a corner. I've been advised everything from "have to remove and replace the whole side(many thousands) to DIY by drilling some holes, work good 3M adhesive under it an figure a way to apply pressure and fill the holes. This came right from Winnebago. Immediate repair is not required. What experiences have you had?
  • festag's avatar
    festag
    Explorer
    Apr 19, 2019
    I have not had personal experience, but check out the YouTube channel “RV with Tito”. He had a similar issue with delamination in his class C and he shows how he approached repairing his rv.

    BTW - Tito is not the name of the host of the videos. It is Brian. He explains in one of his live Q&A videos if you are curious.
  • JIMNLIN's avatar
    JIMNLIN
    Explorer III
    Apr 19, 2019
    I fixed a 2' X 2' area upper rear corner on the side of my current '97 5er. I drilled several holes at the top of the delam spot so the adhesive could run down.
    I had the trailer in my trailer barn and used the barn side wall and a 2 x 4 wedged against the wall and the delam spot. That was 18 years ago and looks great.

    IMO this was a mfg process defect as there was or is no leak.

    The trailer didn't come with a drip or awning rail. After fixing the delam spot I bought 65' of EZE Gutter for both sides of the trailer. The EZE just about covered the drilled holes. However you have to look close to see them under the EZE gutter lip.

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