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Pilgrim6's avatar
Pilgrim6
Explorer
Aug 19, 2018

Delamination Repair alternatives

I have a 2007 Sunset trail TT with delamination in the front panel. It appears that the construction was FILON over aluminum frame. Over time, the Filon has separated from the paper-like substrate.
I am planning on repair, myself, and have come up with a few different methods---I'd like some feedback.
1)make a plywood mold that mimics the curve at the roof line, and cast a new, all fiberglass, one-piece nose section. This has the advantage of no seams--so no leaks, and no sub-strat from which to delaminate. All fiberglass. The downside is, obviously COST---In exploring the materials needed--the cloth, mat, release agent, resin-etc, it all adds up to several hundreds $$.

2) while dreaming....similar to option #1, but add some urethane foam board to allow some "sculpting" of the nose to encourage the wind to flow around. Still as expensive as option #1, but maybe saving some gas costs....maybe

3)Remove the existing Filon w/o damaging it, and use a pressure washer to remove all the old sub-strate, then glue (relaminate) it to a new 5mm luan skin--scoring the backside of the luan to allow it to bend and match the curve at the roof line.
Benefit--significantly lower costs--and reuse of the existing fiberglass/filon shell. Downside--am i simply setting the fuze for another delamination time-bomb?

4)Install 5mm luan as in #3, treating the backside with a wood sealer, and then soaking the front side with fiberglass resin, and 2 or 3 layers of fiberglass cloth.

5) Find a local source for aluminum sheeting, have an "S" bend crimped onto one end of a sheet to form a water-tite joint, and install over the aluminum framework. I would need suggestions of the gauge of the aluminum.
  • Like previously stated, Lowes and HD don't carry 1/8" here where I live either. I found it at a local lumber yard. Don't know if lowes might order it. My experience with Lowes is they don't help with items like that unless they can make a large profit. Talk to the local stores.

    As for screws you could go with SS but that gets expensive. I think if you replace them with plated/painted head screws and keep it sealed up the screw won't corrode too much as long as it is dry.

    I keep several different sizes and types of square drive screws so I have them when I need them. I have bought them from Bontragers surplus in Michigan every time we travel through. I buy a lot of my RV repair materials there. They usually have reasonable prices and if they don't have what you need there are several other surplus stores in that area.

    They also sell some items online. Not sure if it's still worth the effort when you pay shipping.
  • Original screws are all corroded and many do not hold anything. I guess there was electrolysis between the steel screw and the aluminum framework.
    Any suggestions for a better product?
  • Pilgrim6 wrote:
    Thanks...where did you source the 1/8" door skin luan?


    Your local lumberyard may have it, our local yard has 4x8 sheets of it in stock..I know the home centers like Lowes or Home Depot most likley don't, special order maybe...

    Dan
  • #3. I did this on a TC a couple of years ago. It turned out very good.

    You don't need to score the plywood. 1/4" or 5mm is too thick. I used 1/8" door skin luan and it will bend to follow the contours nicely. The lower curve on the one I did was about an 18" radius.

    If you put it back correctly and maintain the yearly resealing it should last a long time. There are many oldies on the road with this type of construction.
  • Thanks....
    I had not thought about silicone caulk being a problem, but now that you mention it, i see the problem.
  • #3 and be very particular about sealing the trim and penetrations. Don't use silicone caulk because in the future, nothing will ever stick where you have previously used silicone.

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