DIY Pressure Testing for Rain Leaks
I have an impossible to find leak in my travel trailer and I am at my wits end. My trailer is a 40 ft. Park model on a permanent campsite in southern Delaware with a hard room and deck attached so I d...
Forum Discussion
A large air flow isn't what is needed to do a leak test, especially as you are sealing off the vents, drains, etc. What is needed is a blower that will produce about 1 inch of water pressure. That's not much pressure (about 0.036 psi) but I have no idea whether a carpet dryer would do that. I was able to produce 0.6 inches of water in our MH with an electric leaf blower and the dash fan on full.
A few years back I found the operating instructions for the SealTech system online and copied them in case I needed to do a test myself. Here's what they recommend for test pressures:
Note: normal operating pressures range from 0.3 inch to 0.6 inch water column. If initial pressure with impeller at maximum RPM is less than 0.4 inch, additional preliminary sealing of RV should be undertaken. A walk around the exterior of the unit will usually disclose causes of major air escapement, (indicated by outrushes of air) which can then be corrected.
1. With door closed, turn on fan unit switch. Vary RPM to determine that pressures are within operating parameters noted above.
2. Set RPM to produce differential pressure of 0.3 - 0.5 inch water column (subject to 4. below) exit the RV, closing and securing door.
3. Spray soapy solution to all exterior areas where leaks are likely to be found and note location of faults. Judgement is required; for example, Pittsburgh seams will permit air escapement, but not all resulting bubbles will be indicative of a leak due to the seam overlap. However, where bubbles appear in a Pittsburgh seam at a junction with the leading edge of a window or other outer skin break, rain water could be forced in by air pressure arising from highway travel.
4. Note: Larger leaks require lower pressure than small leaks. Pinholes may require up to 0.6” water column; big holes as low as 0.15”.
A few years back I found the operating instructions for the SealTech system online and copied them in case I needed to do a test myself. Here's what they recommend for test pressures:
Note: normal operating pressures range from 0.3 inch to 0.6 inch water column. If initial pressure with impeller at maximum RPM is less than 0.4 inch, additional preliminary sealing of RV should be undertaken. A walk around the exterior of the unit will usually disclose causes of major air escapement, (indicated by outrushes of air) which can then be corrected.
1. With door closed, turn on fan unit switch. Vary RPM to determine that pressures are within operating parameters noted above.
2. Set RPM to produce differential pressure of 0.3 - 0.5 inch water column (subject to 4. below) exit the RV, closing and securing door.
3. Spray soapy solution to all exterior areas where leaks are likely to be found and note location of faults. Judgement is required; for example, Pittsburgh seams will permit air escapement, but not all resulting bubbles will be indicative of a leak due to the seam overlap. However, where bubbles appear in a Pittsburgh seam at a junction with the leading edge of a window or other outer skin break, rain water could be forced in by air pressure arising from highway travel.
4. Note: Larger leaks require lower pressure than small leaks. Pinholes may require up to 0.6” water column; big holes as low as 0.15”.
