Pressure Tested Camper Leaks Found

I Think the OP used a leaf blower and I think the CFM will be quite a bit higher than a Vacuum.

And as you stated, maybe it's an internal issue?

ticki2 wrote:
Jim , perhaps I am overly optimistic of the test and thought it would show up any leaks . I am half wondering now if it is not a condensation issue under certain conditions . My camper is riveted aluminum skin , aluminum ribs and aluminum interior skin with factory spayed on foam insulation . But if that were the case , being the camper is now 49 years old , the wood wings should have rotted out long ago .

Jim , perhaps I am overly optimistic of the test and thought it would show up any leaks . I am half wondering now if it is not a condensation issue under certain conditions . My camper is riveted aluminum skin , aluminum ribs and aluminum interior skin with factory spayed on foam insulation . But if that were the case , being the camper is now 49 years old , the wood wings should have rotted out long ago .

ticki2, it sounds like you expect a pressure test to be completely reliable in finding leaks. I doubt that is the case and visual inspection is still important. A pressure test is not going to be helpful in finding leaks in exterior compartments or other areas that cannot be pressurized. I can also guess there are other leaks that would not show up. Internal pressure might help remaining caulk to maintain a seal but like a one way value, the defective area may leak from the exterior.

I remember having a tire leak that was slow but annoying. I covered the tire with soapy water numerous times but could not find the leak until it eventually got worse. Unfortunately with RVs it does not take a major leak to cause major damage. A very slow leak and only a small amount of water can create serious damage over time.

OK , so I tried this test today . I was getting a small water leak showing up at the bottom of the passenger wall at the wing . It did not always occur , and happened on or off truck .

Used a 5hp shop vac and kids bubble solution . Tapped off every opening I could find . I spayed generously every seam , protrusion and all the windows .

The only bubbles that showed up was the top corner of a front crank out window from under the rain flap and the same place on the rear bath crank out window .

Neither of these would account for where the water is showing up , especially when the camper is stationary .

The question is for those who have been successful at this . Is the shop vac not enough ? Was the bubble solution not good enough ? If the bubbles showed up in 2 places it would seem that both the above were sufficient to show up any other leaks . Puzzled :?

maxum1989 wrote:

SidecarFlip wrote:
Been doing it for a few years no with no issues. I'll have to get out the Dwyer and see what it's pushing...sometime.

Don't understand 'getting the desired pressure' What is your desired pressure? Is it the same as my desired pressure or is your pressure different and what determines the correct pressure? I don't believe you know and I don't either nor do I want to.

Just enough pressure to escape from the compromised seal areas. Nothing more.

...very little air movement required.

I think you are reading way more into the procedure than is necessary.

Not trying to 'inflate' a camper like an inner tube, just get air movement (positive pressure to ambient pressure transition.

Don't make it complex. It isn't.

I don't do the 'what if stuff' I do the what is wrong stuff much better.

If you took my responses as being argumentative that was not my intent. You can use whatever pressure you like.
My desired pressure when I do this test at home is to obtain the same pressure that the Sealtech machine uses when getting this done at a Dealership. After all, this is the test we are trying to emulate isn't it? So why not use the pressure they use? It was tough to find it when I tried looking for it but eventually I found it. I do not remember where that is now though.

Not trying to be argumentative at all.

In my view, a little common sense prevails. Don't think that anyone using the home brew Blower Door Test would intentionally attempt to blow the windows out of their unit, that seems far fetched to me and I give anyone who does the test more credit than that.

Conversely, most folks don't have a manometer available so a bit of common sense is all that is required (in my opinion) at least.

Finally, knowing CW like I do and reading about the horror stories concerning CW's less than stellar service, I'd be surprised if the average CW technician even know how to use a manometer, let alone read the scale correctly.

I think you are making a simple procedure overly complex. All it take is some common sense to be successful.

If I wanted to argue with you, I'd do it via PM, not on a forum where everyone can observe and pass judgment.

It's not about passing judgment at all. What I posted about was a simple way to ascertain where your RV (and that includes ALL RV's not just TC's) have potential water intrusion points at. Nothing more.

I read literally hundreds of posts on various forums (I'm on more than one forum) about leaks and sealing seams and voids but most all those folks don't really know if their efforts are paying off because they really don't know (without a Blower Door Test) if and where it's actually leaking or not. Quite literally, you could be applying Dicor or Eternabond sealant to an area that isn't leaking and a few inches away, the water is coming in.

Only one way to find that out that I know of... Well 2 ways, Pay CW to do a Seal Tite Blower Door Test, or do it yourself. I'm for the latter because one, I'm cheap and two, if I do it myself, I know it's done right, to my satisfaction.

No argument at all. I'm a KISS person.

Sounds like you caught it in time...good deal. I'm of the school of thought that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure and any means available to insure that my TC isn't a rotting leaker, I'm happy with.

Far as your stove/ range hood vent goes, it seems that RV builders tend to use the cheapest stuff available, you aren't the only one with a cracked inoperative vent, Our friends are touring Alaska right now and their vent broke up there...

I suspect I'll be effectuating some type of repair in the fall when they visit on their way back home.

I know I'm going to leak test their unit while it's here.

If RV owners were pro-active about seal testing and maintenance, we would not see the horrible rot / resto jobs on this forum because there would be no issues.

I always keep a couple tubes of Dicor and Eternabond on hand and a roll of Butyl tape too. You never know. Sometimes, you can hit a sale too.

SidecarFlip wrote:


Been my personal experience that your average Home Depot leaf blower won't produce enough pressure to compromise any impending leak points that aren't already compromised.


You 'think' your camper is a sealed space... It isn't by a long shot.

This was also my experience. There are plenty of spaces that air was escaping. The area where the gas pipe passes thru the camper, the sewer outlet, the bottom of the door and the stove exhaust vent. I wasn't initially wasn't getting enough pressure to reveal anything. The stove vent is cracked and needs to be replaced anyway, so I removed it and duct taped the opening. That gave me just enough pressure. I'd say maybe 1-2 psi?

As far as the leaking area...good news. I was able to remove the moulding with some heat applied (Didn't take much to soften up the sealant). Upon inspection, I can see where the filon/wood siding was not cut straight, which left nary an edge to seal to. It appears to be dry and not damaged much, if at all. I believe I caught it early. Had I not done this test, I'm sure this would have spread and become a rotted/delaminated mess down the road a couple years.

The reason I was able to push in on that spot is because it wasn't properly glued or affixed (whatever they do). There's a small gap directly behind it which allowed it to flex and I guess eventually break the seal. This was not clearly obvious during my previous inspections as I don't go around pressing on every inch of the camper. In this case, the CA drought was a good thing. I'll post some pics as I can.

The fantastic fans set on "in" will pressure my units enough to keep dust out of them on roads less travelled.

SidecarFlip wrote:
Been doing it for a few years no with no issues. I'll have to get out the Dwyer and see what it's pushing...sometime.

Don't understand 'getting the desired pressure' What is your desired pressure? Is it the same as my desired pressure or is your pressure different and what determines the correct pressure? I don't believe you know and I don't either nor do I want to.

Just enough pressure to escape from the compromised seal areas. Nothing more.

...very little air movement required.

I think you are reading way more into the procedure than is necessary.

Not trying to 'inflate' a camper like an inner tube, just get air movement (positive pressure to ambient pressure transition.

Don't make it complex. It isn't.

I don't do the 'what if stuff' I do the what is wrong stuff much better.

If you took my responses as being argumentative that was not my intent. You can use whatever pressure you like.
My desired pressure when I do this test at home is to obtain the same pressure that the Sealtech machine uses when getting this done at a Dealership. After all, this is the test we are trying to emulate isn't it? So why not use the pressure they use? It was tough to find it when I tried looking for it but eventually I found it. I do not remember where that is now though.

Been doing it for a few years no with no issues. I'll have to get out the Dwyer and see what it's pushing...sometime.

Don't understand 'getting the desired pressure' What is your desired pressure? Is it the same as my desired pressure or is your pressure different and what determines the correct pressure? I don't believe you know and I don't either nor do I want to.

Just enough pressure to escape from the compromised seal areas. Nothing more.

...very little air movement required.

I think you are reading way more into the procedure than is necessary.

Not trying to 'inflate' a camper like an inner tube, just get air movement (positive pressure to ambient pressure transition.

Don't make it complex. It isn't.

I don't do the 'what if stuff' I do the what is wrong stuff much better.