DIY Pressure Testing for Rain Leaks
I have an impossible to find leak in my travel trailer and I am at my wits end. My trailer is a 40 ft. Park model on a permanent campsite in southern Delaware with a hard room and deck attached so I d...
Forum Discussion
********UPDATE**********
Pressurization Success!
I made the trip to my trailer this weekend armed with the 1 HP CFM Pro 4200 carpet dryer. After covering all drains and vents with tape I ran the mouth of the carpet dryer through the bedroom hatch door and sealed it off with tape and cardboard.
I ran one end of a 10' half inch clear plastic hose through the cardboard and on the outside taped it to the trailer in a U shape with the hose touching above the U and poured water in. At the water level on each side I marked 1/4" above and below the the even water levels in the tubes.
I left a door open, turned on the fan, and gradually closed the door while watching the pressure. With the door all the way closed and the fan on low, I achieved .5" pressure difference in the water tube. This low setting was around 2600 - 2800 cfm. This is on a 40' trailer with 2 large slide in the open position and I did not do anything extra to seal the slides.
I mixed a strong dish soap to water solution of probably 1 part to 7 parts and started spraying seams and windows. I found some air leaks which were pretty evident even on a very windy day.
The tricky part is knowing where air should be leaking and where it shouldn't be leaking. All windows leaked air at the glass but I also found seams in the top of the aluminum window frames that leaked. I found a leaking caulk joint along the slide-out seal that shouldn't have been leaking. After rinsing off the soap and allowing to dry I sealed these spots.
WORD OF CAUTION: After over an hour of pressurization, spraying and searching for bubbles, I climbed on the roof and was alarmed to see air pockets forming between the rubber roof and the wood roof under it around several of the the roof vents. I shut off the blower and pressed these spots back down and the air pockets went away but the rubber is no longer glued fast to the wood in those spots. This occurred at exactly .5" pressure which is within spec for the Seal Tech machine instructions so I was very surprised that it happened. If I were to do it again I would keep the pressure down in the .3" range for a rubber roof.
Time will tell whether I got my leak fixed but I am optimistic at this point. If not I will go after it again. I hope my experience can help guide others who are dealing with similar frustrating water leaks. Westend, your pictures were very helpful. Much thanks to all who helped me with information in this thread.
Pressurization Success!
I made the trip to my trailer this weekend armed with the 1 HP CFM Pro 4200 carpet dryer. After covering all drains and vents with tape I ran the mouth of the carpet dryer through the bedroom hatch door and sealed it off with tape and cardboard.
I ran one end of a 10' half inch clear plastic hose through the cardboard and on the outside taped it to the trailer in a U shape with the hose touching above the U and poured water in. At the water level on each side I marked 1/4" above and below the the even water levels in the tubes.
I left a door open, turned on the fan, and gradually closed the door while watching the pressure. With the door all the way closed and the fan on low, I achieved .5" pressure difference in the water tube. This low setting was around 2600 - 2800 cfm. This is on a 40' trailer with 2 large slide in the open position and I did not do anything extra to seal the slides.
I mixed a strong dish soap to water solution of probably 1 part to 7 parts and started spraying seams and windows. I found some air leaks which were pretty evident even on a very windy day.
The tricky part is knowing where air should be leaking and where it shouldn't be leaking. All windows leaked air at the glass but I also found seams in the top of the aluminum window frames that leaked. I found a leaking caulk joint along the slide-out seal that shouldn't have been leaking. After rinsing off the soap and allowing to dry I sealed these spots.
WORD OF CAUTION: After over an hour of pressurization, spraying and searching for bubbles, I climbed on the roof and was alarmed to see air pockets forming between the rubber roof and the wood roof under it around several of the the roof vents. I shut off the blower and pressed these spots back down and the air pockets went away but the rubber is no longer glued fast to the wood in those spots. This occurred at exactly .5" pressure which is within spec for the Seal Tech machine instructions so I was very surprised that it happened. If I were to do it again I would keep the pressure down in the .3" range for a rubber roof.
Time will tell whether I got my leak fixed but I am optimistic at this point. If not I will go after it again. I hope my experience can help guide others who are dealing with similar frustrating water leaks. Westend, your pictures were very helpful. Much thanks to all who helped me with information in this thread.
