Does anyone make an A/C larger than 15,000 BTU

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
... It boiled down to having crummy insulation ...

That's just about the bottom line.

Folks seem to pay way to little attention to this when shopping for an RV, whether new or used, and then struggle afterwards to try and work around it. Above "average" insulation and parking in the shade are the two best solutions. I'll bet it's an American RV manufacturers' issue ... I wonder how well the run-of-the-mill Australian RVs are insulated?

The words high efficiency mean it might do it under ideal conditions and EVENTUALLY.
Just like our high efficiency wsher and dryer at home. It takes all day to do four loads and beats the clothes up but uses a little less water.
What RVers have wanted and wondered why they don't produce a 16,000,18000, or 20,000 btu quiet roof top heat pump.
Aunit of such performance shouldn't weight 20 lbs or 25 lbs more and should not cost more than 50 bucks than current units.
Our heat pumps, one 13,500, and one 15,000 with high speed fan, that screams like an f16 engine spooling up, fight to keep a 38 ft interior cool. That and no insulation in the caps.
I'm sure we will see some Chinese junk shortly claiming to give us what we want at a high price. That is not what we want.
Give us what we want and need.

I added a 5,500 BTU window unit to the bedroom, and closed the door at the bathroom kitchen. Magic. I can report that my bus in the late 80's DID NOT COOL ENOUGH with THREE 13,500 Coleman roof air units (they were new) in 115F, 45% R/H temperatures. I had to add the window unit as described. It boiled down to having crummy insulation, and being parked in the sun.

Terryallan wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
The largest is 15k. If your RV is longer than 25 foot, a 15k will not be able to keep up in temps above 90 degrees and hi humidity. Doug

Really? My 13.5, on my 29' TT, does a great job in the high heat, and humidity of a Myrtle Beach July day. (read 80% humidity, and 100+ degree F) As long as the doors aren't opening, and closing every 2 minutes, and in truth. The main door is always open, with the screen door shut. It has plastic sheeting covering the screen. Maybe it's the superior insulation values of the AZDEL construction.

That is nice for you. Some are actually well installed. Most of us have inadequate ducting, air leaks into the ceiling, poorly sealed plenum and less general insulation. No way does my 13.5 keep up on a 100+ day (26' RV) and that is dry heat here.

Terryallan wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
The largest is 15k. If your RV is longer than 25 foot, a 15k will not be able to keep up in temps above 90 degrees and hi humidity. Doug

Really? My 13.5, on my 29' TT, does a great job in the high heat, and humidity of a Myrtle Beach July day. (read 80% humidity, and 100+ degree F) As long as the doors aren't opening, and closing every 2 minutes, and in truth. The main door is always open, with the screen door shut. It has plastic sheeting covering the screen. Maybe it's the superior insulation values of the AZDEL construction.

I'm somewhere in the middle I guess. My 13.5 struggles when temps get near triple digits. I thought it would do much better since it had no problem even at 104 in the sun in our last TT - a cheap, poorly insulated 22 footer.

dougrainer wrote:
The largest is 15k. If your RV is longer than 25 foot, a 15k will not be able to keep up in temps above 90 degrees and hi humidity. Doug

Really? My 13.5, on my 29' TT, does a great job in the high heat, and humidity of a Myrtle Beach July day. (read 80% humidity, and 100+ degree F) As long as the doors aren't opening, and closing every 2 minutes, and in truth. The main door is always open, with the screen door shut. It has plastic sheeting (plexiglass) covering the screen. Maybe it's the superior insulation values of the AZDEL construction.

For our popup, we utilize all of the following strategies as conditions require. Obviously, the tent fabric can lose a LOT of cool air very quickly:
- Radiant barrier under the wing bed mattresses (left in at all times)
- Radiant barrier cut out to fit in every single window opening. It can be installed or removed very quickly between the plastic and the screen. We store the pieces under the wing bed mattresses.
- Reflectors that install over the wing beds and the slideout
- Close curtains to wing beds during heat of day (except during nap time)
- Utilize the 12-volt fans for wing beds and/or dinette area
- Awning to help shade front of camper
- Park in as much shade as possible

I'd highly recommend the reflective tint available at Home Depot or Lowe's for glass windows in a TT or 5er. We use it on our rear storm door at home and it's incredible how much of a difference it has made.

Beyond that, I'll agree with those who advocate a 2nd unit for more cooling. If you're ever in a spot where power is limited, you can just run one and stay under the amp limit.

You can do a lot to increase the efficiency even with one AC by making sure the plenum area is taped up correctly and that all of the ducts are sealed where they are cut out for the ceiling registers to insure that you are not blowing air into the ceiling area. I almost doubled the felt airflow of mine with a roll of duct tape. manufacturers typically do a pretty sloppy job of AC installation.
Solar screens are also a possibility and there are some pretty good products out there. I would recommend solar screen material over film simply because with film, the heat still makes it to the glass.

I've long wondered why RV AC haven't improved their efficiency like the window unit market has. They use as little as half the energy they once did and it's about time the RV industry caught up with them.
I have no doubt an 18K unit could run off the same supply as the old 13.5 or 15K units did.

Let it struggle. It is a machine it does not get tired. Check the coils if cleaning is needed. Set the temp low in the morning to get a head start on the day.

I think basement air conditioners may have more BTU but you would need to add a second roof unit for more cooling.