Dometic 2662 troubleshoot

dougrainer wrote:

MitchF150 wrote:
Yes, you want to keep the baffle in place, but you do need some fans to push/pull the hot air out. Here is my setup in my slide placed Dometic fridge.



I had to add this myself. It gets **** hot up there and the fans push/pull out a lot of that heat for sure... A lot more then when the fans are off.

These have a temp sensor on them and when set on "auto" will run as needed depending on the temps.

I run my fridge on gas when it gets hot out. Just seems to recover quicker than on electric.

At night, I'll switch to electric just because it never gets opened while we are sleeping.. :)

It's working for me. Sitting here in Eastern WA and it's only in the mid 80's right now, but those fans are pumping out the heat and the fridge is nice and cool... Well, the beer is very cold and that's the important thing! :)

Going to be in the mid/upper 90's tomorrow....

Mitch

On this install, that wood panel the blue foam and fans are attached too----Can that top wood panel move UP another 2 or 3 inches? If so, you will get MORE air THRU the fins. Right now, you are really pulling the air BEFORE it has a chance to go THRU the fins to remove the heat.

Hi Doug. The pic is deceiving, in that there is at least 2" of space above where the fins are located even thou it does not look like it in the pic.

I checked this after your post and it does not look like there is much I can make that space more. but, thanks for the comment and letting me know to look for that.

It actually cools very well with the fan setup when it's dang hot outside and the sun beating full on that side of the trailer!

I have found that I do need to put some 'insulation' between the side wall part of it on the inside of the slide, as the inside panel on the slide gets VERY HOT.. I put up some cardboard as a buffer for the weekend trip and that made a HUGE difference, so I will be fabbing up a more permanent insulating solution before the next trip.

Might post up some pics of that if I can remember to do that! ha, ha!

Mitch

Thanks Doug. You are the man!!!

riven1950 wrote:
Mitch:
Thanks for the info. Will be checking on those fans.

Doug:
I understand what you are saying, but it seems if the unit is properly installed and the Dometic fan is not working they would fix it.

Anyway, I plan to put some sort of fan in as an extra. In your suggestion do you have to pull the frig out to hook up to the tstat disc? Also to show my ignorance what is a tstat disc? I'm guessing a thermostat switch controlled by temperature fluctuations?

Thanks again

Yes, it is a Thermal disc. Yes, if the tstat disc OR the Fan is inop, Dometic will pay for that repair under the warranty. ADDING the extra fan they will not. But, sometimes they will. It depends on the performance parameters reported by the Service facility. You do not have to pull the refer to connect the wiring to that disc, but from your pic, you may not have easy access. It is sometimes easier to pull the refer to do this modification. Your last pic. IF that wood shelf is easily removed you will have access to the original fan and the wiring without pulling the refer.

Mitch:
Thanks for the info. Will be checking on those fans.

Doug:
I understand what you are saying, but it seems if the unit is properly installed and the Dometic fan is not working they would fix it.

Anyway, I plan to put some sort of fan in as an extra. In your suggestion do you have to pull the frig out to hook up to the tstat disc? Also to show my ignorance what is a tstat disc? I'm guessing a thermostat switch controlled by temperature fluctuations?

Thanks again

MitchF150 wrote:
Yes, you want to keep the baffle in place, but you do need some fans to push/pull the hot air out. Here is my setup in my slide placed Dometic fridge.



I had to add this myself. It gets **** hot up there and the fans push/pull out a lot of that heat for sure... A lot more then when the fans are off.

These have a temp sensor on them and when set on "auto" will run as needed depending on the temps.

I run my fridge on gas when it gets hot out. Just seems to recover quicker than on electric.

At night, I'll switch to electric just because it never gets opened while we are sleeping.. :)

It's working for me. Sitting here in Eastern WA and it's only in the mid 80's right now, but those fans are pumping out the heat and the fridge is nice and cool... Well, the beer is very cold and that's the important thing! :)

Going to be in the mid/upper 90's tomorrow....

Mitch

On this install, that wood panel the blue foam and fans are attached too----Can that top wood panel move UP another 2 or 3 inches? If so, you will get MORE air THRU the fins. Right now, you are really pulling the air BEFORE it has a chance to go THRU the fins to remove the heat.

riven1950 wrote:
Thanks so much for the replies.

Doug: Is the fan you refer to running all the time? If it is not running maybe my immediate problem. Maybe Dometic will repair it if that is the problem as our unit is < 2 years old. I am still planning on putting in the extra fans. Have read about them but never had a problem before, even spending a month in the Keys the first winter. Makes me think the OE fan is out.

Mitch: Do you have details on where I can find the fans and how to hook them up or point me in a direction to find that info I like the looks of your setup.

Your problem is the OEM install and Dometic will not fix/modify OEM install issues. What I do is, I tie the new 4 inch 12 volt fan power to that tstat temp disc. That way the fans only run when the rear heat reaches and closes the Tstat fan disc. The fans the other poster showed are great, but all you need is the standard 4 inch 12 volt fan. Doug

Hi Riven. I got them off of Amazon (where else!) Here is what they are.



Kinda spendy $$..I paid $80 for the kit about a year ago. Looks like it's now $90.

Basically "plug and play" in the sense, all you need to do is find a 12v power source. (I tapped into the 12v power leads to the fridge in the lower compartment of the fride).

Then mounted the controller in the lower area and ran the wires up to the top.

The temp control is just a wire and I just mounted it to one of the brackets.

The reason for the "pool noodle" at the top is that the top baffle is not really mounted and I could not screw into it.. So, it's just mounted on the bottom with the supplied brackets the top is just sitting there with the noodle and some duct tape... Yes, it's "hacked" in there, but it works darn well!

The noodle mostly just keeps it from vibrating on the upper baffle. (Version 1.0 had it just duct taped to the top... This is version 1.1 and works better that way..)

Of course, still room for Version 2.0, but too lazy for that as this is working just fine!

Good luck! Mitch

Thanks so much for the replies.

Doug: Is the fan you refer to running all the time? If it is not running maybe my immediate problem. Maybe Dometic will repair it if that is the problem as our unit is < 2 years old. I am still planning on putting in the extra fans. Have read about them but never had a problem before, even spending a month in the Keys the first winter. Makes me think the OE fan is out.

Mitch: Do you have details on where I can find the fans and how to hook them up or point me in a direction to find that info I like the looks of your setup.

Yes, you want to keep the baffle in place, but you do need some fans to push/pull the hot air out. Here is my setup in my slide placed Dometic fridge.



I had to add this myself. It gets **** hot up there and the fans push/pull out a lot of that heat for sure... A lot more then when the fans are off.

These have a temp sensor on them and when set on "auto" will run as needed depending on the temps.

I run my fridge on gas when it gets hot out. Just seems to recover quicker than on electric.

At night, I'll switch to electric just because it never gets opened while we are sleeping.. :)

It's working for me. Sitting here in Eastern WA and it's only in the mid 80's right now, but those fans are pumping out the heat and the fridge is nice and cool... Well, the beer is very cold and that's the important thing! :)

Going to be in the mid/upper 90's tomorrow....

Mitch

The baffles look like they are very good. They are directing the air up thru the Condenser fins and out the upper access door. BUT, even with that baffle system you still need an additional fan installed blowing OUT the upper door. This is required in a Slide room even tho the OEM's never install them. Your last pic shows the FINS. On the right side of the fins you will see 2 wires going to a tstat disc. THAT is the temp control for the Dometic installed 12 volt fan. It will be below that Condenser about 8 to 12 inches. IF you do NOT hear the fan, odds are the Tstat disc is bad. You have to pull the refer to diag and replace the defective fan or check it out. Doug

PS you need 2 fans. The original and the one added at the top