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wingrider6's avatar
wingrider6
Explorer
Jun 24, 2020

Dometic DM2652 Refer Not Working

My condensate line on my refer was brittle and fell apart. I removed the refer and replaced the tubing. It should have been an easy task, unplug from 120VAC, disconnect 12VDC wires, remove LP line, remove screws and pull refer out. Install new tubing and reverse process--but now the refer won't work (at least on gas, don't know about 120VAC). When turned on to gas I hear a hum from the control board and the check light comes on. Both fuses on the control board are good. I have only 2.94v on the J2 pin (this is the wire that carries voltage to my interior light and heat strip around freezer door). I have 13VDC at J4 which is what powers the board. I have no spark at the igniter. With this very limited info I hope someone can help.
  • Next time your condensate line breaks, just turn the interior drip tray around and put a glass under it. Lots easier.

    I have no idea about your problem.
  • The 120 V supply in my refrigerator comes from a GFI in my bathroom. I would suggest you check your GFI’s add to see if any are tripped.
  • When you turned the gas back on did you open the valve slowly, some times if you open them to fast it thinks there is a leak and stops the flow of gas. Does the stove work? battery charged? needs 12 volt for the controls to work.
  • To those who replied: it’s not 120v problem, there is 120v to control board. It is not a gas problem, there is no spark ignition to light gas. It’s as if control board needs reset or something, there’s 12VDC to the board, there’s 120VAV to the board just nothing on the “output” side. No 12VDC out, nor any 120VAC out.
  • Flute Man: Yes. I thought of that and I checked that about 3 times. Good point though!
  • It's very important to have great 12V, clean all battery wires, give them a squirt of WD40 then reinstall. to do a reset cut the 12V power and 110V power for a few seconds the turn everything back on. Good Luck

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