Dometic DM2652RBX not working on "new" trailer

beemerphile1 wrote:

r33pwrd wrote:

beemerphile1 wrote:

I bet the manual gives that kind of information. If you don't have a manual, Google the brand and model number and find it online.

actually it does not, I have the manual and it was the first place I looked. It does not mention anything about how you should configure it if you want to run on AC only....

To run on AC only, set to 'auto', turn off LPG. I have no idea why anyone would want to do that. Seems like a good way to have spoiled food.

I don't want to but when the trailer is sitting at my house I do not need the gas on and I am hooked up to very reliable power so I don't see why not... I mean I have lived in my house for 8 years and never once has my food spoiled ;)

r33pwrd wrote:

beemerphile1 wrote:

I bet the manual gives that kind of information. If you don't have a manual, Google the brand and model number and find it online.

actually it does not, I have the manual and it was the first place I looked. It does not mention anything about how you should configure it if you want to run on AC only....

To run on AC only, set to 'auto', turn off LPG. I have no idea why anyone would want to do that. Seems like a good way to have spoiled food.

HERE is a Dometic Manual that covers your model of fridge. Lots of good info


HERE is a Dometic Parts List for your model...future reference if needed

Your model of fridge has a non-adjustable temp control---pre-set at factory.
You CAN make minor adjustments (6*-8*F) to overall temp in food section by moving the 'thermistor' clipped to cooling fin in food section.
Moving it UP......cooler
Moving it DOWN....less cooler


Enjoy your 'new' RV!!

r33pwrd wrote:
I would love to understand why they have anything other than an auto option.

In addition to those reasons already mentioned, when you're boondocking and running off an inverter, you don't want your refer running on electric, even though it may be available.

Auto uses electric when it is present. If you unplug, it switches over to gas, then when you arrive at campsite and plug in, it switches back over to gas.

You can force gas only, which is a good way to cool faster and test the propane option before towing a long distance and losing everything in the fridge because it wasn't cold.

In other words, gas to cool and tow, electric to camp (when avail), and gas only to force cooling.

I didn't design it, so can't say for certain, but it makes sense when I think of it this way.

Oh, get some bars for each shelf of your fride and two for freezer. The first time a jar of pickled does not fall out on the floor when you open the fridge the first time at your campsite, you'll know it was money well spent ;)

AUTO is 120. If NO 120 available, the refer goes to LP. They have the LP selection so you can run on LP ONLY if you want to limit your 120 amperage consumption when you are on a 30 amp or lower shore cord power pole. The reason to have the AUTO configured this way is, IF you lose 120 power it will automatically run on LP, so you do not ruin food.
BTW, it only cools FASTER on LP for the first 15 minutes. Then both the 120 and LP will cool down at the same rate. Both LP and the 120 element have the same BTU ratings. Doug

DiskDoctr wrote:
Auto is for gas or electric, with electric preferred when connected. The other position is gas.

FYI, gas will cool your fridge much faster and uses very little gas.

There are some *different* concepts of how things work in an rv that may take a while to figure out, but once you do, they are really quite simple and enjoyable.

Welcome aboard and have a great first trip! Ask any q's or share any first-time tips you find.

Thank you for the comments!

beemerphile1 wrote:

r33pwrd wrote:
well I think I am dumb.. I assumed auto was for when you wanted to use gas or AC and out was for forcing it to use AC only. I depressed the switch and auto it light up and appears to be working now. Man it must be late :)

Thank you

I bet the manual gives that kind of information. If you don't have a manual, Google the brand and model number and find it online.

actually it does not... I have the manual and it was the first place I looked. It does not mention anything about how you should configure it if you want to run on AC only. The part that confused me was why would you have the option to be auto or gas only? My assumption was you would have an auto and a AC only option (and nowhere did I read anything that was different)

I would love to understand why they have anything other than an auto option. Really only needs an on /off witch unless I am missing an a reason you would not?

r33pwrd wrote:
well I think I am dumb.. I assumed auto was for when you wanted to use gas or AC and out was for forcing it to use AC only. I depressed the switch and auto it light up and appears to be working now. Man it must be late :)

Thank you

I bet the manual gives that kind of information. If you don't have a manual, Google the brand and model number and find it online.

Auto is for gas or electric, with electric preferred when connected. The other position is gas.

FYI, gas will cool your fridge much faster and uses very little gas.

There are some *different* concepts of how things work in an rv that may take a while to figure out, but once you do, they are really quite simple and enjoyable.

Welcome aboard and have a great first trip! Ask any q's or share any first-time tips you find.