Dometic DM2652RBX

um56 wrote:
I got the over temp button from Dometic. The line voltage is 120v. The switch is touching the flue, but it's supposed to. The over temp button onlu trips on A/C power, not when it's on gas. The fridge is 7 years old. I have a feeling I'm going to be buying a new fridge!

What is your definition of "Flue"? The overtemp is supposed to be mounted on the silver galvanized OUTER housing of this flue COVER. It is not supposed to be too near or touching the actual steel flue of the cooling unit. I think the Temp switch is touching the sleeve the heating element is in and it is NOT supposed to. There should be insulation between the mount of the temp switch and the steel flue of the cooling unit. Doug

Thanks, I'll check it out.

um56 wrote:
I got the over temp button from Dometic. The line voltage is 120v. The switch is touching the flue, but it's supposed to. The over temp button onlu trips on A/C power, not when it's on gas. The fridge is 7 years old. I have a feeling I'm going to be buying a new fridge!

I would not buy an entire new frig. I'd replace the cooling unit. I replaced mine with a rebuilt Amish unit and it worked great. I am disabled from strokes and was able to do it myself with help with the heavy lifting. The cost was around $500 for the unit. I had to pay up front an additional $100 which was promptly refunded when they got my old cooling unit back. They paid the shipping.

Bought it here:

RV Cooling Warehouse

Dave

I got the over temp button from Dometic. The line voltage is 120v. The switch is touching the flue, but it's supposed to. The over temp button onlu trips on A/C power, not when it's on gas. The fridge is 7 years old. I have a feeling I'm going to be buying a new fridge!

Where did you get the Overtemp switch? What is the 120 line voltage to the Refer? Is the Overtemp switch possibly touching the metal part of the chimney flue? Possibly the insulation is not correct between the Temp switch and the sleeve for the heating element? How OLD is the refer? The overtempt switch WILL do its job if the cooling unit is blocked or defective. THAT is the purpose of the overtemp switch---to prevent continued HEAT that overheats the CU and could cause it to rupture. Doug

I left it on over night on 120v but the over temp button trips, like something is going on with the heat chamber. Batteries are excellent, I'm getting 13.2 volts DC. After 3 or 4 hours I should be able to feel a little temperature difference on some of the components, but there is no change at all.

you need a good 12volt source weather on gas or 120v and three hrs is not enough .takes 12hrs or more for a rv frig to get to a useful temp. hows your batteries????