dometic fridge will not cool on AC

Cajundog67 wrote:
It does work on lp. The heat element was tested by disconnecting and checking ohms with a multimeter. About 38 i believe. The AC was tested at multiple points changing leads and tetsting with alternate returns. All gootages check out until you get to ac for the heater. Then it is missing. Could I be checking the top board and cable incorrectly?

So, the FUSE for the Heater on the Board is GOOD? Doug

Sounds like the 120 volt element relay has failed on the circuit board.
Dinosaur electronics replacement is the way to go.

It does work on lp. The heat element was tested by disconnecting and checking ohms with a multimeter. About 38 i believe. The AC was tested at multiple points changing leads and tetsting with alternate returns. All gootages check out until you get to ac for the heater. Then it is missing. Could I be checking the top board and cable incorrectly?

How did you test the 120 volt element?
Should check for continuity by disconnecting element from circuit board. If you do not disconnect from circuit board, you could be looking at resistance in circuit board and have a bad reading.
Check for 120 volt output from circuit board.

Is the flue hot -- if so the fridge is working and you might just be impatient .. takes along time to cool down an RV fridge and many new members keep opening the fridge door to check which is part of the problem.

Does it switch and not cool or does it stay on LP operation?

yes to both. But I am considering removing, cleaning and reattaching all connections. I had to add another dc ground to get my running and brake lights to function properly. But it works fine on Gas. So I would think DC is ok.

Good 12 volts to the board?
Good 120 volts?