Dometic Refer Fridge Portion not Cooling

Gkaiser wrote:
Freezer is cold enough to freeze the milk i put in there to keep it cold.

Replaced thermistor - now retesting.
Also checked voltage at board for heating element and sill getting low voltage with new board.

Could eyebrow board be bad also and not signaling the main board to go electric?

So 2 problems 1 fridge isn't cooling and 2 it only works as gas. Either in gas only or auto mode. It goes to gas.

The Operating temp of a freezer is 0 to 10 degrees. Milk will freeze at about 30 degrees. So, using the COLD temp of your freezer by gauging the milk freezing without an actual temp is not the way to go. If you want, continue throwing parts and spending money. OR YOU COULD DO WHAT I TOLD YOU. HOT WIRE THE 120 ELEMENT FOR 24 HOURS AND SAVE SOME MONEY. Doug

Actual Model of that Dometic would be helpful

120VAC issue....
Voltmeter
Check voltage at receptacle fridge power cord plugs into
Check voltage ON circuit board where AC Power connects
Check voltage on BOTH sides of the AC FUSE (3a/5a Glass fuse)...make sure Fuse and clips are passing fully voltage
Not recognizing that AC IS available in AUTO Mode could be issue with that Upper display board

Freezer cold...food compartment NOT
Could be circuit board not allowing FULL heating cycle
Could be gas flame NOT generating enough vapor ammonia to allow for full cooling effect (burner clean/flue clean----strong blue flame that just reaches up into bottom of flue)
BAD cooling unit......obstruction between freezer low temp evap coil and food compartment high temp evap coil (freezer cold/food NOT----CLASSIC symptom)
*****As suggested by DOUG remove heater element leads from circuit board and plug DIRECTLY in the 120VAC outlet....both compartments WILL get cold IF cooling unit is functioning properly. Then the issue is with 'controls'
If food compartment does NOT get cold...then bad cooling unit
Simple test and FrEE

Freezer is cold enough to freeze the milk i put in there to keep it cold.

Replaced thermistor - now retesting.
Also checked voltage at board for heating element and sill getting low voltage with new board.

Could eyebrow board be bad also and not signaling the main board to go electric?

So 2 problems 1 fridge isn't cooling and 2 it only works as gas. Either in gas only or auto mode. It goes to gas.

Unit level?

Just curious, how cold is the freezer? The refer coil is the tail end of the freezer coil and the sensor is at the end of the refer coil. If the end of the refer coil doesn't get cool enough to cycle off the heat source, the system will,stay on. I'd monitor the system to see if it's staying on and diagnose from there. FWIW, The refer coil is auto defrost, meaning it auto defrosts on the off cycle.
The old fridges of that type nearly always meant, low on refrigerant, when they acted like that, and it nearly always meant an ice-picked freezer coil but you can't do that on these fridges. If the freezer is plenty cold and the fridge isn't, AND the system is staying on... that's likely bad news for the sealed system cuz cooling isn't getting all the way to the very end of the evap.
"Critical Charge" is a term in the refrigeration world and this type of system is as critical as they get! Craig

See if the coils are leaking.

Since you have OHM reading on the 120 element, Wire the heat element DIRECT to 120 volt power, bypassing the rear control board. leave plugged in for 24 hours. Install a small glass of water in the lower refer section. AFTER 24 hours, if that water is NOT below 40 degrees, your Cooling Unit is BAD. Doug