Dometic Refrigerator Not Cooling Properly

I will try cleaning it from the bottom. I am afraid to remove the top vent cover right because the weather looks like it may rain soon. I have improved the airflow across the coils by streamlining the air flow across the coils and cleaning up the cut thru the roof.
The wife just told me there wasnt any hot water. Got to check that out now.

Thanks for the advice.

Did a quick Google search for "dometic thermistor test" got a lot of hits including YouTube videos.
Good Luck, Mike

Your board can be checked by any reputable RV repair shop, most mobile repair techs and some parts stores. Most will charge you a fee for diagnostic service or you can buy your own tester for about, $210. A new board is about @125 to $175. Personally, I'd leave that to a shop.

Thermistor simulators test set from Dinosaur is about $44. They can be checked with a DMM too.

I have never cleaned mine, inspected but never cleaned.

Unclip the thermistor from the fins puts it into max cool because it dosent shut off.
If you have better internet connection than me :( you can do a search here for test thermistor I know it's been posted just can't remember the OHM specs.
Good Luck, Mike

Some RV shops can test the circuit board. Many just want to replace them.
The flue can be cleaned from the bottom some what.
Remove cover from flame area,
Use a flexible wire and slide it up into the flue. You normally would only have to go three or four inches, until your wire hits the baffle.
Rattle the baffle good. You may see rust and carbon fall into flame area. Vacuum or blow it out good.
Ventilation causes many problems with cooling. Check to see how much distance is between the cooling unit and exterior wall just above the exterior access. It should be only about 3/4 to 1 inch. Any more will allow most of the air to bypass flowing through cooling unit. This can be closed up using insulating board strip. I used Liquid nails type stuff to hold it in place.
Another ventilation area that causes air to slow down is at the top of the refer. The ledge made by the refer stops or slows down the hot air from getting out of the top vent. I used some flashing material bent into a curve to get air moving better. This requires the removal of the refer to do it in the best manner.
Dinosaurelectronics.com owner can tell you the best way to test the thermistor. He is very nice. If you decide on new circuit board, go with the Dinosaur board. It comes with a thermistor adjustment circuit.

edit: saw last post. Sounds like ventilation, thermistor or circuit board. Start easy check ventilation.

popeyemth wrote:
Is the LP burner going?

Yes. The lp burner look good. Nice blue flame. Works equally bad on ac or propane.

Ideally flue done down from above and baffle has to come out. Hard to do without disturbing roof vent. You can reach up from below and rap with screwdriver handle. Then clean burner area.
Some shops can test a board. See if you can hardwire the AC element to an appliance cord and run direct. Should draw two.something amps
But make sure door gasket is sealing all around!!!

Is the LP burner going?

I forgot to mention. My rig is ac2009. The refrigerator was built in 2008.

How do I clean the flue?