Forum Discussion

WesternHorizon's avatar
WesternHorizon
Explorer
Jun 23, 2017

Dometic RM2611 freezer cold / fridge warm

1995 Class C, maybe original fridge. Has worked well but out in the heat and now the fridge won't get cold. Freezer cold.

Found this thread
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23866404.cfm

OK, I unplugged the thermistor while unit on gas. When I unplug, I hear a thunk and replug hear another. Presumably the gas valve. So does this mean the thermistor is good?

I am running the generator now for AC test as directed in the trhead but it seems like the test above implies the thermistor is good.

Any tips appreciated!
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Jun 23, 2017
    Sorry but unplugging the leads of thermistor (temp sensing device in food compartment on far right fin) will cause fridge to run/cool continuously----failure mode from lack of temp sensing.

    Freezer section 'cold' and food compartment NOT COLD......blockage between freezer evap coil and food compartment evap coil.
    Cooling unit is DEAD. NO Good...will NOT cool
  • Ivylog's avatar
    Ivylog
    Explorer III
    Jun 23, 2017
    The freezer has to get down to less than 10 F so the refer section will get below 40F. When it gets hot outside you need more air flow over the rear coils...put a fan in the outside vent blowing in to get rid of the excessive heat.
  • Chris_Bryant's avatar
    Chris_Bryant
    Explorer II
    Jun 23, 2017
    WesternHorizon wrote:
    1995 Class C, maybe original fridge. Has worked well but out in the heat and now the fridge won't get cold. Freezer cold.

    Found this thread
    http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23866404.cfm

    OK, I unplugged the thermistor while unit on gas. When I unplug, I hear a thunk and replug hear another. Presumably the gas valve. So does this mean the thermistor is good?

    I am running the generator now for AC test as directed in the trhead but it seems like the test above implies the thermistor is good.

    Any tips appreciated!


    Unplugging the thermistor tells the refrigerator it is too hot, so if you hear a clunk when you unplug it, but it is not cold, the thermistor is bad, otherwise there would be no difference.

    Try running it for 24 hours with the thermistor unplugged.
  • WesternHorizon's avatar
    WesternHorizon
    Explorer
    Jun 23, 2017
    Old-Biscuit wrote:
    Sorry but unplugging the leads of thermistor (temp sensing device in food compartment on far right fin) will cause fridge to run/cool continuously----failure mode from lack of temp sensing.

    Freezer section 'cold' and food compartment NOT COLD......blockage between freezer evap coil and food compartment evap coil.
    Cooling unit is DEAD. NO Good...will NOT cool


    It's a TEST suggested in the post that I cited. A TEST is not continuous operation.

    UPDATE: Running overnight on GAS with the thermistor unplugged... the fridge is getting cold.

    This implies the thermistor may be bad. I will check resistance when I get home.

    Has anyone replaced the thermistor? Can't find any info on this.
  • WesternHorizon's avatar
    WesternHorizon
    Explorer
    Jun 26, 2017
    I got home and continued the test on AC:

    1. Thermistor unplugged, wait 24 hrs: fridge is cold
    2. Thermistor plugged in, wait 24 hrs: fridge warms up
    3. Left it plugged in and on, another 24 hrs: fridge is cold

    Could the thermistor be intermittent? I should be getting a new one within the next couple days.

    Thank you.
  • Chris_Bryant's avatar
    Chris_Bryant
    Explorer II
    Jun 26, 2017
    It will be an intermittent short- shorted thermistor "reads" cold, open thermistor "reads" hot. That's much more common on Norcold thermistors, but Dometic has changed the design to a more robust one.

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