Dometic RM2801 Fridge ** UPDATE**
I have a 1989 RM2801, two way power. Propane and 120 VAC. I just discovered that the fridge draws 1.31 amps on the 12 vdc circuit with the power selector switch in the off position and in the gas or electric position. I am just a little befuddled over this. What would be using 1.31 amps?
If the selector switch is off, shouldn't all 12vdc be turned off to everything?
I haven't had time to look for the point at which disconnecting the input power kills the draw. By that I mean, I haven't had time to trouble shoot down to the component level.
I did move the selector switch from OFF to GAS and then to ELEC. with no change in the draw.
Got any ideas before I tear into the rear panel to the circuit board or the front trim to check the input out put at the selector switch.
We're leaving for the Grand Canyon Thursday and would like to find out if this is normal before we leave. I have not had time to turn the gas on or the 120 VAC on to check operation as I've been checking the SOC after a full charge, that's when I discovered the vampire draw.
UPDATE
Well I wish to thank all of you who responded, I am eternally grateful for all the help I have received since joining the
Forums.
Now for what seems to be the problem, when I updated the converter, I did not upgrade the distribution panel. While I was taking measurement with my meter I was having a problem keeping the 12 v panel door open so I decided I would remove the bezel. I forgot the bezel was part of the DC distribution panel and as I pulled it away from the steel housing, I saw one of the output lugs move and the vampire must have seen his reflection in the mirror and he is gone.
My distribution panel is both the 120vac breakers and the 12vdc fuses and is original to the RV, that means it is 26 years old and the way the output lugs were attached to the circuit board was by rivets. I did have a problem with the 12volt supply lug and added a brass machine screw and nut to hold the lug tightly to the PC board. I should have done all of them. As a temporary fix I am using Stay Bright solder on each lug. Stay Bright is 4% silver but has a very low melting point. I will add screws when we get back next week.
Another problem I discovered or maybe it's not a problem is that the entry light by the interior steps is connected to the Fridge circuit. The circuit fuse is 15 amps and the fridge light is on a different circuit. There are two switches for the fridge light. the door activated switch, which was turning the light on and off when the door was opened and closed and a toggle switch to turn the light off altogether.
It has worked good for 26 years and hopefully it will continue to work at least until the motor home breathes it's last.
If the selector switch is off, shouldn't all 12vdc be turned off to everything?
I haven't had time to look for the point at which disconnecting the input power kills the draw. By that I mean, I haven't had time to trouble shoot down to the component level.
I did move the selector switch from OFF to GAS and then to ELEC. with no change in the draw.
Got any ideas before I tear into the rear panel to the circuit board or the front trim to check the input out put at the selector switch.
We're leaving for the Grand Canyon Thursday and would like to find out if this is normal before we leave. I have not had time to turn the gas on or the 120 VAC on to check operation as I've been checking the SOC after a full charge, that's when I discovered the vampire draw.
UPDATE
Well I wish to thank all of you who responded, I am eternally grateful for all the help I have received since joining the
Forums.
Now for what seems to be the problem, when I updated the converter, I did not upgrade the distribution panel. While I was taking measurement with my meter I was having a problem keeping the 12 v panel door open so I decided I would remove the bezel. I forgot the bezel was part of the DC distribution panel and as I pulled it away from the steel housing, I saw one of the output lugs move and the vampire must have seen his reflection in the mirror and he is gone.
My distribution panel is both the 120vac breakers and the 12vdc fuses and is original to the RV, that means it is 26 years old and the way the output lugs were attached to the circuit board was by rivets. I did have a problem with the 12volt supply lug and added a brass machine screw and nut to hold the lug tightly to the PC board. I should have done all of them. As a temporary fix I am using Stay Bright solder on each lug. Stay Bright is 4% silver but has a very low melting point. I will add screws when we get back next week.
Another problem I discovered or maybe it's not a problem is that the entry light by the interior steps is connected to the Fridge circuit. The circuit fuse is 15 amps and the fridge light is on a different circuit. There are two switches for the fridge light. the door activated switch, which was turning the light on and off when the door was opened and closed and a toggle switch to turn the light off altogether.
It has worked good for 26 years and hopefully it will continue to work at least until the motor home breathes it's last.
.
